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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Some time ago while still a young man in his 50's, I met Dick Bass at Vinson Basecamp. Knowing I was approaching a certain age he said, donini, "three cardinal rules for a man once he turns 60."
*Never let a hard on go attended, even when alone, it may be your last.
*Never pass a bathroom without using it.
*Never trust a fart.
Now, I ask you, wouldn't that make you grumpy?
Yeah there are a few grumpy old men (and one or two women) on this forum. If they are like me everything is starting to go with the single exception of experience, I hesitate to use the word wisdom. A lot of the hot air blowing around here is from that venerable demographic. There are also younger, eager to learn, climbers lurking on ST. So ladies and gentleman, and I use those terms advisedly, what have you learned that has kept you alive all of these years?
As for me, I'm heading to Patagonia shortly in my quest to maximize the number of daylight hours I experience.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
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Sounds like sound advice for you cranky 'ole f*#kers.
I'm right behind ya, I'll be there too. It's part of life, man.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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Perhaps you meant "unattended?"
Anyway I'm thinking that those criteria are a bit premature for 60??
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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No matter how smart you are, there is always an element of dumb luck. Don't look a gift horse in the mouth. Git on it and ride.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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Thanks for pointing out that rather bad typo and yes they are premature. Maybe they weren't for Dick Bass.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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The same thing can also be unintended although this could perhaps decrease with age...
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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2 of those cardinal rules can be eliminated by wearing dispoable diapers...The third by pharmecuticals...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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Yes, the advance of technology has not just been with ice tools.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
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Be afraid. Seriously.
I read a ton of books when I got into climbing. Back then very few famous climbers survived to old age it seems. Scary stuff. Made me pay close attention and ask a lot of questions or turn around when I wasn't absolutely sure.
Know you will make some stupid mistakes. Train your skills and plan you climbs such that mistakes hopefully won't kill you. Ie back stuff up and double check your self and partners, be realistic and accurate on time estimates.
For short trips going light ie a day or a few.. pick good weather. Be patient till you get it.
On expeditions planned for a year or longer.. Pick good weather... haha yeah right!!
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buckie
Trad climber
Oregon
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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As a fifty something climber in the Northwest for the past 34 years I have learned that knowledge will save you when the gear is gone. Your mind is the best piece of equipment you carry so exercise it regularly rather than depending on some gizmo. Oh, yah, duct tape wrapped around your ski poles comes in handy along with stove wire in your pack. Learn to improvise!
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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Jim, you are prolific today. We used to call #3 a G and L. Gambled and lost.
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
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Good one Cragman!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
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What makes me grumpy is that my bones have become accurate predictors of precipitation.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
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Be polite to grumpy old men.
Pray that your mistakes don't kill you, and make sure that you learn something real from every one of them.
"Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning, think what may be the end," which is to say choose your risks, do not let them just happen to you unexpectedly.
In climbing endeavors big and small, develop and refine your sense of the half-way point.
Beware of conventional wisdom.
Beware of current fashion.
Beware of expert opinion.
Beware of your opinions.
Climb in accordance with the mind and body you have today.
Choose risks for yourself, but not for your second.
Stop thinking you can control everything.
Do as much as you can to control everything.
Have fun, test your limits, and remember your family.
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
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Grumpy Old Men is a pejorative. The appropriate appellation is Irritable Male Syndrome on IMS
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Heloise Pendergrast
Social climber
Tahoe City
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Gross. I'm so glad I'll never become a G. O. M.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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Yeah, but you could become a toothless cougar.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 19, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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My theory in my youth was to wear everything out by the time I was 75.
The reality is you have little influence over the schedule.
Use what little influence you have wisely.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 19, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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That's a hell of a lot of wisdom from gifted and gifted grumpy old men.
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