Warm cragging Pie shop,, Iron Butte~

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
WInter be coming so two crags in the general Tahoe area will be a great choice coming up..The Pie Shop, at south shore faces south east, and can be surprisingly warm ! VEry nice cracks like "hands masseuse" or "true grip", "desiderata" or even the classic "Crepes corner" as well as some OWs await there. Bolted faces -some modern, some old school, chimneys, troughs and knobs abound and most climbs are one or two pitches although some are done in three shorties. Try out "natural high" for an exposed roof crack problem! Or do "deliverance", a 10 off width that once figured out seems more like 5.8! If your into aid, marmot cave has an A4 waiting that is stellar! The atmosphere there in the winter can be very calming-- its a friendly crag in every way! There's been many a famous climber on those routes from the golden age Yosemite guys like TM Herbert, to Richard Harrison and countless others..Beautiful granite, beautiful area.
Credit: Ron Anderson

Then,, on the east side, is Iron Butte. A volcanic rim rock type structure just east of Dayton..Gorgeous clean routes on quality rock are warm throughout the late morning to sundown as it faces West! Bolted faces, over hangs, trad crack routes up to 140' roof and crack routes up steep faces, an all pro face climb up a very unique wall are had here. "Wild women of planet playtex", is a 5.9 bolted face to anchors, or try "Grip master" at 10B up to the right! Try Baboon Safari, a roof to headwall 11A hand crack that Dano onsight soloed one cool evening..Lots of un done stuff there still as well...Is warm and inviting during the cold months! You might luck out and get to see some of the local crows doing aerobatics too!

L- Steve Yasmer on "the wall",,M-Steve and Tim on "wild women of plane...
L- Steve Yasmer on "the wall",,M-Steve and Tim on "wild women of planet playtex", and R- Jim Arnold leading "gripmaster"- iron butte 91


RedBeard is the obvious crack to the left, which you take the crux of to get to the start of "gripmanster".
Credit: Ron Anderson
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 14, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
Thanks Ron!
It's a tad cool this afternoon for my normal spots, so I'm wondering where I should go, thanks for the suggestions.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 14, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
Thank you for posting climbing content once again! I have yet to check out Woodfords canyon, which is kind of embarrassing to admit... : (
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
Your welcome!..And the south facing side of woodfords is climable all year-IF it isnt under snow..and it will be there when ya get around ti it!;-) One of the most special areas around imo, adventuresome to be so close..Ive seen articles in papers recently saying there are now over three hundred routes in woodfords! Ive also heard rumor of a new guide for about three years or better now...Wish they would get it out!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 14, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
Woodfords is such a cool place and I havent even roped up there. I worked there for a winter though.

Ron, have you been up to Purgatory?
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 14, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
Credit: Chim-Chim
Credit: Chim-Chim
Ron, I finally locked down some experienced help... I'm meeting with a graphic designer, Tuesday to iron out the logistics. It's not too easy as you know. I considered a few different publishing companies, but I decided to go with a printing company in Texas, to keep the business in the states. With some concentrated effort it should be out by late spring.
Due to the complicated nature of the area and delicate nature of the terrain, there will be detailed narratives as well as bird eye views to get people where they want to go, without messing the place up. This will no doubt make for a better experience. The number of climable pitches will be around three hundred. Several two-four pitch routes will be described, that lie on both the winter and summer sides of the road. I'm considering an"E" book version but haven't decide and Am also considering a spiral binding. I can't wait to get this out for everyone to enjoy, the great climbing that The Woodfords has to offer. Milt
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Nov 14, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
ron is deliverance your route?
i took a small fall on that a few years ago.
it was staged though (yea right) cause some
of the finer

gender were looking on.
i finished the grainy, dirty offwidth
and we took the ladies to thai food
in south shore.

pie shop is a great crag.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
Excellent News Milt! Yes,, its like eating an elephant with a fork-doing one of these guides..I thoughroughly feel your pain! I really appreciate the stewardship towards the land in the canyon..Its somewhat alluvial, and needs the extra TLC to insure uncle monkey doesnt take a dim light to it all..



and Brandon,, no,, never done the purgatory thing..:-/

edit: Weeg,, No,,i forget who fa"d that Maybe Crawdaddy? I used to see people THRASH themselves silly facing the wrong way on that one..If ya face into the rock, arm bar the gap and face climb,,its like 5.8 maybe 5.8+..;-)
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Nov 14, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
Chim,
Can't wait to see it and I'll be one of the first to buy it!!!
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Nov 14, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
Ron,
Is Iron Butte in any guidebooks???
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 14, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
Where is pie shop located? Looks very interesting!

Chim Chim is that pictures from Woodfords?!?!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
Freido,, Iron butte info can be found in the archives here and on Mtn project AND the NEW N tahoe guide by John Jackson which has a full write up and topos on it! it was originally in the East tahoe region guide i did in 91..


Pie shop is off sawmill Blvd just past the Y at south shore Lake Tahoe...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Nov 14, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
I have to get my Iron Butte on soon!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 16, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
Vitality, that tower lies on the south side of the road, up the long gully system above Woodcutter Wall. It's about a thirty-five minute approach. Five two-three pitch routes will be described. There's also an opportunity to do a Tyrolean Traverse. In all there are 60 routes or so in the immediate Crystal Springs area that will be included in the book from 5.7 to 512b. The pictures of the big (jumbled looking) sunny wall lies on the north of the side of the road and offers more winter cragging than Sugarloaf and Phantom Spires combined.N.F.A. See you up there. Milt
Bertrand

climber
California
Nov 16, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
Jeff, we had a great day up there two summers ago. Thanks for showing us around. I have to get back there one of these days and re-visit OOTD.

Isn't it called Cloudburst on the north side of the road?
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 16, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
Cloudburst is up canyon from Crystal Springs, on the same side of the road. Peace Milt
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 16, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
Thank you Chim Chim, sounds good.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
seasonal bumpin..;-) WARM rock to be had - pieshop,, Woodfords Canyon and Iron Butte. Among others.

there be cracks, slabs, overhanging OWs!
there be cracks, slabs, overhanging OWs!
Credit: Ron Anderson

this being "others"^^^ Id tell ya but id be kilt.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Oct 7, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
I hope to check out the "among others" on some warm days this winter. Will be enjoying "exploring" the cool nights under the stars as well ;) Looked at that thing again this year but have yet to get on it... gotta love the emptiness of Nevada...

edit: That thing is much steeper, and bigger, than it appears in the photo btw.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Oct 7, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
iron butt
Credit: the czar
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