Board lasted shoes + plantar fasciitis

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strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
I've been having some recurring trouble with plantar fasciitis, and my normal shoes, 5.10 moccasyms, just aren't working for me. My first pair of shoes, years ago were red chilli "sausalitos" and were super stiff, and fit great. Those shoes are too broke down to re-sole, and I actually cracked the board in the sole. I'd get another pair, but it's been 12 years since I had those, and bone spurs make it difficult to find lace up shoes that fit. Any suggestions on modern, stiff soled shoes? And is anyone aware of a company making a board lasted slipper?

Thanks, John
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Oct 21, 2011 - 01:33pm PT

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoe-Reviews/La-Sportiva-TC-Pro
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 21, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
Boreal still makes Ballet Golds, you can mail order them from Neptunes. I did recently and was completely pleased with their customer service and speed of delivery. No deals to be had though, they are the sole (haha) us importer that actually has stock these days, it seems.

http://www.neptunemountaineering.com/neptune/product.asp?prod_name=Boreal+Ballet+Gold+Rock+Climbing+Shoe&pf_id=PAAAAAOFAKCNJOPP&dept_id=3128&s_id=0&

That's one of the last board lasted hand made shoes, anywhere, so far as I know.

DMT
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Oct 21, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#221869

Do yourself a big favor and get one of those. . . and stretch out your calf - EVERYTIME you think of it.

Trust me!
strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
I know that a board lasted slipper is a pipe dream, but I have a bone spur behind my big toe, and most shoes, the laces, or Velcro straps sit right on it. With a limited amount of stiff shoes out there, I'm hoping one will fit. The Tc's look awesome, but spendy, and it's way more shoe than a punter like me needs.

Thanks for the tip Ekat.. I'll definitely look into that rocker thing. I spend a lot of time at work climbing silos, with runged ladders, and it's destroying my feet.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Oct 21, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
the i'mgreenwithenvybecauseshelivesnearmtshastaandidon't lady is right, those are the best calf stretchers out there.
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
I know that a board lasted slipper is a pipe dream, but I have a bone spur behind my big toe, and most shoes, the laces, or Velcro straps sit right on it. With a limited amount of stiff shoes out there, I'm hoping one will fit. The Tc's look awesome, but spendy, and it's way more shoe than a punter like me needs.

Wishing for a non-existent shoe isn't going to get you anywhere.

If you want a good climbing shoe, you're going to have to spend money. I initially thought the TC pro's were way too expensive, until I put them on, and now they're my favorite shoe.

[Attempts to sound like less of a TCProFanboi]

Go out and try shoes on. The comfort from a better shoe will be worth the dough.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
Attempts to sound like less of a TCProFanboi

Lol I had one of those noobs lecture me on how I simply had to discard my worthless golds and run, not walk, to get a pair of these.

I was like... whatever.

DMT
strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
J-- true words.. I'll take a look and see if nomads has them, I got a birthday this weekend, and if they fit good, maybe I can talk the Mrs. Into letting me score a pair. A friend also recommended Acopa merlins, although I haven't seen them anywhere in So. Cal. Mammoth mountaineering had a few back in august, but none big enough to put my giant flippers into.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Dingus, I can climb all day in my TC Pros, day after day. Edges as good as my Miura's did, and I have never ever any foot pain or problem since I've had them. Just had them resoled in fact. I have never had a climbing shoe in almost 40 years I can say that about, so....whatever!
Karen

Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
Question for you guys; I don't understand what the shoes that bow upward do? Can you explain?

Next question, how do the board lasted shoes perform on friction climbs?

I have major issues finding climbing shoes that do not hurt my feet, so still climbing in shoes I bought in the 90's, however, performance wise they are shot, keep getting them resoled but they are not long for this world:(
Gary

climber
From the City That Dreams
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:44pm PT

Next question, how do the board lasted shoes perform on friction climbs?

I led 5.9 runout slab in my La Spotiva Megas. It was not a problem. Those were great shoes and I wish I had bought a few pairs.
strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
Karen-not sure what you mean by "bow upward"... Like opposite of a down turned bouldering/sport shoe? I've never seen one..

And as for friction with a board lasted shoe, I tend to prefer it. I feel less strain on my feet with them when climbing slab, and the stiffness helps with the edging, which I tend to try to do to get my weight off my forefoot. The main reason I've been wearing the slippers is my bone spur on my foot. I actually think the slippers are contributing to my plantar fasciitis, but I've not been able to find shoes that don't hurt my spur.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
Dingus, I can climb all day in my TC Pros, day after day. Edges as good as my Miura's did, and I have never ever any foot pain or problem since I've had them. Just had them resoled in fact. I have never had a climbing shoe in almost 40 years I can say that about, so....

whatever.

DMT
Karen

Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
Oct 21, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
It is the shoes that look as if the toe is pointed downward.
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Oct 21, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
I don't understand what the shoes that bow upward do? Can you explain?

It is the shoes that look as if the toe is pointed downward.

Aha! Confused by the first, clarified by the second... In a tight fitting shoe, the downward pointing toe will essentially exert force - from the foot trying to stretch flat in the shoe - onto the toe, providing better and more sensitive edging response.

This can usually be painful though. Precision comes at a price...

There seem to be some shoes around these days that are the best of both worlds. Some that you can fit snugly, still be able to edge, wear (mostly) all day, and not wail in pain when jamming in cracks.
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Oct 21, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
I am well into my second year of climbing in the TCs. I bought them because they were the only thing I could find that fit my lame-ass feet besides the Mythos, but I needed more support than the Mythos offer. They are among the most comfortable shoes I've owned.

They climb very well on the type of routes I like to do... slabs and slabby cracks.

The rubber that comes on the TCs is OK... but C4 is much more to my liking as I found after Komito resoled them for me. The rands are pretty fragile for the way I use them. Those are my only complaints.

This year as I started to migrate inside for some gym time, I decided to pick up a pair on gym shoes, so as to preserve my precious TCs for outdoor adventures. I ended up with a pair of Boreal Jokers, which are pretty comfy and climb nicely.

But lo, my first time in them I noticed I wasn't doing so well on some of the 11- plastic routes that are at the upper-end of this old man's sending reality... but just some of them. Specifically the ones that required serious edging... routes I had previously sent in the TCs. So I suit up for the pesky pitching routes in the TCs and suddenly I'm up them. Man do they edge like nothing else.

Yeah, I know... whatever :-)

I'd love to give a pair of Boreal Golds a spin... but with the interwebs being the only place to get them I'm SOL. Seems like Mountain Tools carries them, too... right?

Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 21, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
It's not board lasted, but I think the Ace is the stiffest shoe still made. It's all J will wear b/c of his bone spur on the ball of his foot, but they kill my Achilles.

I order his straight from Boreal since no one here carries them, and if you order them through mtntools, they just order them from Boreal first, and the whole process takes longer. Boreal ships DHL. I think I got two pairs in less than two weeks for less than $20 shipping. No sales tax either.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 21, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
What size you wear? Perhaps the Crooning Mr Smooth,aka Scuffyb, can match you up with some Kauk's?

Whatever, Dingus may say, I love my TC Pro (two sizes)and mostly climb in them. But, because they are wider than other Sportiva's they don't edge like Miura's, ( or Ballet golds) for me.

Board lasted shoes kick ass on Friction!
Archie Richardson

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Oct 21, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
TC Pro is not board lasted. Good shoe, though. Boreal is the only maker of board lasted shoes that I am aware of.
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