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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
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I've been having some recurring trouble with plantar fasciitis, and my normal shoes, 5.10 moccasyms, just aren't working for me. My first pair of shoes, years ago were red chilli "sausalitos" and were super stiff, and fit great. Those shoes are too broke down to re-sole, and I actually cracked the board in the sole. I'd get another pair, but it's been 12 years since I had those, and bone spurs make it difficult to find lace up shoes that fit. Any suggestions on modern, stiff soled shoes? And is anyone aware of a company making a board lasted slipper?
Thanks, John
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
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I know that a board lasted slipper is a pipe dream, but I have a bone spur behind my big toe, and most shoes, the laces, or Velcro straps sit right on it. With a limited amount of stiff shoes out there, I'm hoping one will fit. The Tc's look awesome, but spendy, and it's way more shoe than a punter like me needs.
Thanks for the tip Ekat.. I'll definitely look into that rocker thing. I spend a lot of time at work climbing silos, with runged ladders, and it's destroying my feet.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Oct 21, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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the i'mgreenwithenvybecauseshelivesnearmtshastaandidon't lady is right, those are the best calf stretchers out there.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Oct 21, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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I know that a board lasted slipper is a pipe dream, but I have a bone spur behind my big toe, and most shoes, the laces, or Velcro straps sit right on it. With a limited amount of stiff shoes out there, I'm hoping one will fit. The Tc's look awesome, but spendy, and it's way more shoe than a punter like me needs.
Wishing for a non-existent shoe isn't going to get you anywhere.
If you want a good climbing shoe, you're going to have to spend money. I initially thought the TC pro's were way too expensive, until I put them on, and now they're my favorite shoe.
[Attempts to sound like less of a TCProFanboi]
Go out and try shoes on. The comfort from a better shoe will be worth the dough.
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
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J-- true words.. I'll take a look and see if nomads has them, I got a birthday this weekend, and if they fit good, maybe I can talk the Mrs. Into letting me score a pair. A friend also recommended Acopa merlins, although I haven't seen them anywhere in So. Cal. Mammoth mountaineering had a few back in august, but none big enough to put my giant flippers into.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 21, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Dingus, I can climb all day in my TC Pros, day after day. Edges as good as my Miura's did, and I have never ever any foot pain or problem since I've had them. Just had them resoled in fact. I have never had a climbing shoe in almost 40 years I can say that about, so....whatever!
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Oct 21, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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Question for you guys; I don't understand what the shoes that bow upward do? Can you explain?
Next question, how do the board lasted shoes perform on friction climbs?
I have major issues finding climbing shoes that do not hurt my feet, so still climbing in shoes I bought in the 90's, however, performance wise they are shot, keep getting them resoled but they are not long for this world:(
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Gary
climber
From the City That Dreams
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Oct 21, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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Next question, how do the board lasted shoes perform on friction climbs?
I led 5.9 runout slab in my La Spotiva Megas. It was not a problem. Those were great shoes and I wish I had bought a few pairs.
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
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Karen-not sure what you mean by "bow upward"... Like opposite of a down turned bouldering/sport shoe? I've never seen one..
And as for friction with a board lasted shoe, I tend to prefer it. I feel less strain on my feet with them when climbing slab, and the stiffness helps with the edging, which I tend to try to do to get my weight off my forefoot. The main reason I've been wearing the slippers is my bone spur on my foot. I actually think the slippers are contributing to my plantar fasciitis, but I've not been able to find shoes that don't hurt my spur.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Oct 21, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
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It is the shoes that look as if the toe is pointed downward.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Oct 21, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
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I don't understand what the shoes that bow upward do? Can you explain?
It is the shoes that look as if the toe is pointed downward.
Aha! Confused by the first, clarified by the second... In a tight fitting shoe, the downward pointing toe will essentially exert force - from the foot trying to stretch flat in the shoe - onto the toe, providing better and more sensitive edging response.
This can usually be painful though. Precision comes at a price...
There seem to be some shoes around these days that are the best of both worlds. Some that you can fit snugly, still be able to edge, wear (mostly) all day, and not wail in pain when jamming in cracks.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Oct 21, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
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I am well into my second year of climbing in the TCs. I bought them because they were the only thing I could find that fit my lame-ass feet besides the Mythos, but I needed more support than the Mythos offer. They are among the most comfortable shoes I've owned.
They climb very well on the type of routes I like to do... slabs and slabby cracks.
The rubber that comes on the TCs is OK... but C4 is much more to my liking as I found after Komito resoled them for me. The rands are pretty fragile for the way I use them. Those are my only complaints.
This year as I started to migrate inside for some gym time, I decided to pick up a pair on gym shoes, so as to preserve my precious TCs for outdoor adventures. I ended up with a pair of Boreal Jokers, which are pretty comfy and climb nicely.
But lo, my first time in them I noticed I wasn't doing so well on some of the 11- plastic routes that are at the upper-end of this old man's sending reality... but just some of them. Specifically the ones that required serious edging... routes I had previously sent in the TCs. So I suit up for the pesky pitching routes in the TCs and suddenly I'm up them. Man do they edge like nothing else.
Yeah, I know... whatever :-)
I'd love to give a pair of Boreal Golds a spin... but with the interwebs being the only place to get them I'm SOL. Seems like Mountain Tools carries them, too... right?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 21, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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It's not board lasted, but I think the Ace is the stiffest shoe still made. It's all J will wear b/c of his bone spur on the ball of his foot, but they kill my Achilles.
I order his straight from Boreal since no one here carries them, and if you order them through mtntools, they just order them from Boreal first, and the whole process takes longer. Boreal ships DHL. I think I got two pairs in less than two weeks for less than $20 shipping. No sales tax either.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 21, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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What size you wear? Perhaps the Crooning Mr Smooth,aka Scuffyb, can match you up with some Kauk's?
Whatever, Dingus may say, I love my TC Pro (two sizes)and mostly climb in them. But, because they are wider than other Sportiva's they don't edge like Miura's, ( or Ballet golds) for me.
Board lasted shoes kick ass on Friction!
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Archie Richardson
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Oct 21, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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TC Pro is not board lasted. Good shoe, though. Boreal is the only maker of board lasted shoes that I am aware of.
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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A little search turned up that red chili still makes the "Sausalito 2". I think I'm gonna dig my old pair out, and re-check the fit. Found them for $50 at a place called "bent gate mountaineering"... Never heard of this company. Are they decent?
As for the TC pros, I just read that they have sportivas P3 "power rand" like the solutions. I tried a pair of those at a festival and could barely stand in them. Is it the same rand and footbed, or are the TC's less downturned?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 21, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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already knew that archie, I don't think anyone said they were board lasted but Dingus opened that pandora's box... :p to both of you.
They say it's the same downturn, but it doesn't feel as toe grabbing arching as in Solutions or testarossa's
Bent Gate is Big store ala neptunes, only in Golden. Only heard the best of people's interactions with them.
I have a new pair of 38.5 Speedsters (also slip lasted) for sale for $80, btw
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Oct 21, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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+1 on the Aces and stiff shoes in general.
Also consider the Acopa JBs. Stiff *and* comfy. I wish I had a pair. $70 if you're a lucky size 8.
$60 Kaukulators if you're an even luckier size 12!
If you're not opposed to sanitizing used shoes or possibly contracting foot fungus, I think they're the best bang for your buck. You can try many types without breaking the bank. Lots of people that have cash and initial enthusiasm for climbing indoors give up after a few tries and want to off load.
Altrec, Backcountry and REI have a lifetime satisfaction guarantee policy if you want to go the full priced, but returnable route. REI carries the TC Pros. Wishing your feet well. I have that weird bone problem, too. I quite literally feel your pain.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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I had the same problem and now a worse one, Osteoarthritis of the big toes. It's only gonna get worse for me.
I found some Kalkulators here and had them re-randed. Since I do my own resoles, they might outlast me.
A couple of other tricks;
Get some thin aircraft modelers thin spruce plywood and make insoles out of them. Experiment with finishes and thickness!
Think about how big a culprit your approach shoes are. I've gone to using a pair of old Trango IIs that I've slapped C4 on the first couple of inches of. They work well for easier climbs as well. You might consider going back to boots for approaches if it's bad enough.
Choice of routes;
J Tree Slabby dummy domes tear me up. Jugfests or someplace like City of Rocks with generally positive feet or cracks are a lot more tolerable.
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