UK Wide Boyz Climb 'Century Crack' in Canyonlands

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Alex_Ekins

Trad climber
Sheffield
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 7, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
Wide Boyz Climb 'Century Crack' in Canyonlands - http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Oct 7, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
Whoa... Wicked gnarly send boys... That thing looks heeeeinous!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 7, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
I remember crusher posting of a pic of that thing a few years back, so rad it got the send!

freakin wild!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 7, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
Cross posted from the other thread.


Oh my feckin' achin' root ! !

I just threw up on my keyboard.

Those dudes are truly badass and appear to be in a league of their own.

Sick f*#kin' Brits anyway......
cleggy

Trad climber
Derby, UK
Oct 7, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
Century Crack has preplaced gear?

In the photo on the wide Brit blog the guy is chalking up and there's a cam in the crack above him with a biner on it.

I call lame ...
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 7, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
Ooooo, a Brit calling the Brits lame!!

This is gonna get good.

{sound of popcorn munching...}
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Oct 7, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
They talk about the pre-placing here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64429

Either way, pretty damn sick....but haters gonna hate
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Oct 7, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Holy crappoly Batman!
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Oct 7, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Stevie Haston may call foul play..

http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2011/10/so-century-crack-very-good-crack-is.html
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 7, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
Maybe I missed it reading that report on a phone in home depot, while ordering flooring... Did it say how many placements (round figure) they made?

What a line!
What a send!
Cheers!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 7, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
Wow. The training pays off!!

Great shots, Alex.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Oct 7, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
Wow, that's a big effort. Kudos.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 7, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
WOW!!!
edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Oct 7, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
We're seeing Off-Width climbing action at its near maximum potential with these Ladds--way to be true Jedis to the stone UK Wide Boyz !!!!1111




With the kudos out of the way, I must say...





...an OW with controversy surrounding it? Sadly, that seems to be happening all too much these days it seems :-(





Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Oct 7, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
Pretty Amazing!
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Oct 7, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
I think it's got an asterisk attached to it, not a controversy.
A controversy would result from false claims, which have not happened.
Obviously, when someone comes along and climbs it first try carrying the
whole rack, everybody will recognize that as better.

So far, this is the kick-ass achievement.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 7, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Just run it out. That's what Dean and Werner would do ! !
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 7, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
Yes, missed Tom's performance, but watched Pete sending the beast: incredible. Must have been fifteen or twenty minutes of hanging upside down, patiently shuffling across the main part of the roof for about 80+ feet. Then, seemingly as fresh as if he'd just stepped off the ground, he shifted gears, and methodically crushed the tricky end sequence up the merely 45 degree, sandy section and on through the entertaining lip finish.

This was just their second day on the route. I think they both had lots in reserve, could climb something considerably longer and harder; but, alas, I don't think there is anything harder....


Tom Randall, in the photo above, is working the route. First day, Tom and Pete took turns extending their "high" point. Except working is the wrong word; they are so adept at this upside-down pony-riding stance, a better word might be cantering. Or trotting. Or simply grazing, given the effort they seemed to be putting out.


This photo shows Pete Whittacker sending the route, second day. Pose is the "yeehaw" wide pony. This went on for, like, 20 minutes, across the roof. The crux comes after this, where you dismount and start wrestling the merely overhanging finish. The suspense was hard to take.


The lip, if you get to it, is a classic, severely undercut thrutch.



Turning the lip is a fittingly grim finish to the route.

After, the weather put on a great show:


Alex_Ekins

Trad climber
Sheffield
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
Nice pics!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 7, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
Stevie Haston may call foul play..
.. . like, he already did ...
"I leave it to you to try and understand the absurd comment that it is ok to leave this gear in, and not carry it. Trad climbing is absurd nowadays, the climbers are good but their approach is silly."

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