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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 10, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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Spent a couple days climbing some short routes around there about ten years ago (in the canyon along the approach road and also in a hidden, small amphithearer I discovered on one side of the lake). Was going to head back there soon. Anyone else ever climb around there or have route beta/climbing history for the area?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Mebbe look up Steve Glotfelty, Dave Shuler, or 426
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
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When I was there for a weekend ten years ago we brought climbing gear but was with a new girlfriend who was just getting into climbing. We climbed some stuff near the east side of the lake (40' tall at most) in an "amphitheater" next to a meadow. Saw some routes/bolts along the creek/road on the way in that looked a little better but girlfriend was more into "hanging out" and talking than climbing at that time so didn't get a chance to climb above the creek. (relationships always get in the way of getting much cilimbing in....or is that the other way around, lol) Always wanted to go back and explore, but never could get anyone interested in checking it out . Glotfelty might be a likely suspect. Guessing the routes along the creek went in about the time he was busy doing routes on many of the smaller, outlying, obscure crags in the area.
Thule Peak? Is that the ridge that is visible from route 395 that is between Frenchmens and 395 that has that light colored rock on it?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Sep 10, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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I installed 2 bolted anchors on some formations near the lake @ Big Meadow, Pretty good volcanic pocket pulling ......10a & 10d **TR...around '95.
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Sep 11, 2011 - 02:13am PT
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The Frenchman's approach canyon has some bolted lines here and there- one large boulder (uphill, on the northeast side) had a short 3-4 bolt lead, as I recall. If you take a turnout and look up close, you'll also find older bolts on the larger opposite wall on the southwest side as well. Not sure how sound the rock is there in the canyon for trad placements, but there are a lot of offwidths and chimneys.
Also, the wash canyon (lake side) near the west shore boat ramp has some short lines. Theres a lot of rock up around Dixie Valley but the approach is private, looks brutal uphill, and again, may only offer rock of questionable quality? Don't know if it's had any development.
Some crags around Lake Davis have been climbed, I came across some old fixed pins and some fairly good climbing at one spot near Beckworth.
Yuba Pass has some good climbing if you know where to look. Granite as I recall- southern exposure, south (uphill) of campground.
Also some rock (mud flow?) in various other spots around Sierra Valley. Questionable enough that 3 3/4" bolts were called for there. I was a local for ten years but scoped more than I put up lines, unfortunately. General rule of thumb in the area: expect choss- you won't be disappointed, and occasionally you'll be surprised.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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We spent five days over the last month climbing and exploring around Frenchman Lake. The photos are a small sampling of what we have found, so far. Have only found bolts at one place, though still a bunch of stuff to explore in the Lower Canyon that probably has been done before. The big cliff in the "Double Bridges" area photo has a bolted line, with rap/belay anchors, that lead to a ledge about 70' up. From there we could not tell where/if the line continued to the top. There was the potential for some, very spooky, natural gear possibly to the top of this slightly overhanging wall. (anyone have any knowledge about this route?) This slightly overhanging wall ( +- 200' tall and about 95 degrees)has great potential to become a sport climbing wall with many routes possible, not to mention some possible, very hard Sharma type, test pieces out the big cave.
Also found three bolt holes, no bolts, that were obviously for TR anchors above one of the pocketed walls in the "Big Cove North Side" photo.. (I replaced anchors there) Aldude- were these the anchors you spoke of?
Not the best quality of rock (think choss for the most part) and mostly short stuff 30'-70' tall, but enough to have fun at Frenchmans if you are in the area.
Other climbers certainly have explored around here and would like to hear more about who that may have been, or any known activity in the area. Getting a long list of places to climb (other areas) before winter shut things down, but hope to get back to Frenchmans a couple more times before the ski season.
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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Oct 24, 2011 - 01:08am PT
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John- good to see you got back up there. I've been curious to know what you found. Looks like you found some... rock! Hopefully you'll get aldude to come out of hiding! BTW, that third pic down reminds me of the pinnacles with those Balconies waterchutes! Could be interesting.
Anyway, hope all is well. We should get together soon.
Paul
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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Hi Paul,
Been meaning to pm you, just been very busy. Will pm you about getting together again soon.
Spent the last two weekeends up there climbing as well. Last weekend explored an unclimbed 270'+- tall cliff out there and began working on putting up a route up the face. (lots of (spooky) loose rock, stuck ropes, drill bit falling out of small hole in pack and various other weird stuff prevented me from finishing it) Will be going back to finish it soon though, over objections of my climbing partner who was freaked out by all the unpredictable rock quality and loose rock.
This weekend climbed a couple of sport routes that someone told me about in an area on the other side of the lake, next to a creek/"ford" in the lake, that I had not checked out before. (very fun but very short, anyone else ever climb these?)
Also climbed a couple more fun routes, (certainly had to have been climbed previously?) yesterday on the cliff in the second photo of my previous thread.
A bit suprised that it does not seem like the place has seen much climbing activity. An unlikely place to look for climbing I guess, and much of the rock is chossy I suppose. Maybe someone will come forward that knows someone who may have documented some routes around there bitd? Anyway, we have been having fun exploring around and having the crags all to ourselves.
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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Oct 25, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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The choss keeps all the riff-raff away!
Yes, drop me a line when you get a chance. I'll be sending you the completed Lassen NP section of the guidebook soon. Just a few more touch-ups. Brett and Saylor are making good progress out at Buck's Lake. Can't wait to get out there myself!
Anyway, things are moving along! Talk to you soon!
Paul
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Shantiwizardsplay
Sport climber
Chico, Ca
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Jul 29, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Hey there, was looking for information on this crag. Anyone know what road/highway that is at the foot of it? North or south side of frenchmans lake? Would appreciate any information this crag. Type of rock?
Thanks
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jul 30, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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oh momma that's some enticing color on that rock
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Shantiwizardsplay
Sport climber
Chico, Ca
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Jul 30, 2012 - 06:24am PT
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Bumping, for any info leading to the highway under the rock in proceeding picture.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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^^^^^^
All will be revealed in the new "LOCALS GUIDE to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" coming out this winter. The road in question is hwy 284, the road from Chilcoot to Frenchman Lake (off of highway 70), at about five miles from Highway 70 and a mile or two before Frenchman Lake. The rock is better lower down the canyon, closer to Chilcoot, and I would recommend checking out the crag in the first picture I posted, (enlarge map/notes and see area #1) it's obvious right above the road on the other side of the creek, if it is your first trip to Frenchmans. We recently did some routes on a wall just left, and slighter lower, from the wall in the first photo that were fun, trad, moderates (5.7-5.10) about 90' tall. TR'ed/hangdogged :( some harder stuff that I would like to get back on when it isn't scorhing hot. Can be uncomfortably hot this time of year though. Spring and fall are the best times to climb there.
I'll pm you about some of the routes we have done if you are planning to get up there soon. Still looking for feedback on the climbing there, as we have found very little evidence of previous/recent climbing activity? There are going to be a bunch of, mostly trad, routes being explored in the next few months to add to the fun stuff we have been doing up there this last year. Not a big destination area, you'll have the place to yourselves, but some fun little crags if you don't mind dirty, untrodden climbing with a bit of loose rock. :)
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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One of our favorite little crags, so far, at Frenchmans. We have climbed about a dozen routes in this photo in the 70'-90' tall range. Not worth a long drive but for locals (it is closer to Reno than Donner and climable, mostly, year round) an un-crowded little diversion from the better known locations.
If you climb here, please get in touch with me. Would like to get additional feedback/opinions on the ratings etc. before the new guide comes out.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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Bump for his weeks Frenchmans crag of the week. Located in the little gorge just downstream from the dam. First time climbing at this spot. Did nine, nice little trad cragging routes in the 30'-50' tall range in the photo this weekend. The highway is 100' back from the top of this crag which makes access so easy. Still have yet to foray onto the tall (up to 200'+ tall sport climbing potential?) volcanic conglomerate stuff ("Chossy" Central Cali Pinnacles type stuff) that make up the heart of the canyon and is different rock type than in other photos posted except "Phantom Wall"....but maybe soon............
Hoping to get a report/topo beta soon from an earlier explorer of this little canyon who did some stuff around here awhile back. Obviously much of the climbing potential has yet to be explored.....To much great granite at Tahoe/Donner to distract the locaIs I guess.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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If it were closer to Carson City I am certain there would not be any unclimbed rock left, at least that I could still climb. ;) Was really more interested in discovering what might have been done previously than spending lots of time developing (cleaning/trundling) new routes though. But.......the explorer in me is starting to get attached to the place.....(hard to pass up good looking, unclimbed rock) loose rock, choss and all.
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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Aug 10, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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Can't wait for the tour john!
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Bump.....
Finally got on this obvious cliff recently. Climbed four nice lines, 140' tall, up the front face. Look forward to getting back and doing some of the, many, other obvious lines. One of the only places we have found evidence of previous climbing activity at Frenchmans, (a piton and a fixed nut and a piton and bong for a rap/belay? anchor) and some of the cracks seem to have been climbed before, at some point, as less loose rock than at most of the other spots in the canyon. Obvious that there has been some, very sporadic, investigation of this area in the past, but still have yet to see another climber here even though it is only 45 minutes from Reno. Again, looking for help in documenting previous climbing activity? Anyone from Reno or Plumas County been inspired to check it out recently?
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Bump...
For any last minute additions. Paul and I are wrapping up the final editing for the new Northeast California guidebook (Final editing should be completed in the next couple of weeks) Last call out to hear from those that may have climbed or known others that have climbed near Frenchmans. A small part of the book, but one we know almost no history about. I have documented about 80 routes there for the new guidebook but only know of a handful that were previously established. (only 7 of the routes have bolts + a couple of top rope routes; the rest are all gear lead routes.) The face climbing potential has yet to be explored. Not all of it is the best rock documented in this new guidebook, but being only 40 minutes from Reno I am surprised that others have not explored here more extensively. Any last minute beta?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 24, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
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Cilley would love it there - or already has?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!