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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
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Walked up the grade into the Dusy Basin a few weeks ago and marveled again at all the rock on and around the Citadel.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Aug 22, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
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Wow. Awesome photos. Thanks.
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t-bone
climber
CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
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great pics!
Been wanting to get back there.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 22, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
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If I remember correctly, Dave Nettle put up a grade 6 on that thing. Thats one seriously large chunk of rock. As cap'n would say, I love rocks. Thanks!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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that second photo... is that the Edge of Time arete?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
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I just checked Secors book. FA was Lauria,TM, and Hennek. IV,5.7 A3.
Nettles route is a grade IV, not VI, my bad. 5.10+.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
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Great photos. I'd love to climb back there.
Zander
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
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del cross,
Care to share a pic of the dome in question? Anyone?
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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FYI I did a route on the Citadel with maysho a while back called Quality Time (IV 5.10b). It's near the right hand edge of the steep north face, and starts up a distinct splitter crack in the middle of a sunlit clean slabby area shown in DW's second photo. The route follows a single crack system straight up to the end of the steep part of the face. The rock is good from start to finish, unlike the Edge of time, which has broken rock and undistinguished looking climbing in the entire first half. I haven't heard of a second ascent. RJ must have misplced the FA info, as it was not included in the latest edition, even though I submitted it. The water level in the river has probably subsided by now. The last party to attempt the route was turned back by a raging river.
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Gene
climber
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
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Can anyone add any Langile pics/routes? Another amazing stone in the area.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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here's a langille peak pic from another thread
rowell and i did a route on the right side of the triangular face BITD. it was moderate as i recall, like 10a, with very good rock
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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Last time I was there, I was trying to figure out where your route went on Languille. I thought it was on the left side and ended up on the big ledge looking thing.
That peak is really cool looking, with lots of possible lines.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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So beautiful!
I've admired that feature a few times. Appropriately named, I think, as it guards the LeConte canyon.
Thanks for the reminder.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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good thread
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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Tom, here are a couple photos of Langille from down in the valley. this is my memory of our route. we definitely avoided that lower slabby tier of rock. there's lots more to be done for sure
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Aug 23, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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Did the Edge of Time Arete on the Citadel awhile ago with Peter Coward in about 23 hours car to car. It's pretty spectacular back there - great scenery, miles of rock, and I thought the route was pretty good also.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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hey greg - i remember hearing about that trip. a bit of a death march back over bishop pass right? i confess i need to put that in the same category as those speed ascents on the captain - namely, how the $#@$ do you do that ?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 23, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
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Thanks del! Nice looking chunk indeed.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 23, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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Lots of beauty stone up there eh?
WOW!!
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