The Slippery Game- Doug Robinson On Ice Ascent 1971

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 5, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
A classic Ascent 1971 survey of the state of the frosty art four decades back!

Yvon Chouinard photo of Doug Tompkins soloing on Hell's Lum, Cainrgorms, Scotland.

In the V-notch, Palisades.







perswig

climber
Aug 5, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
Those boys knew how to keep their heels down.
And the friction coefficient of wool on ice.

Nice read.
Dale
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Aug 5, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Now we're getting somewhere. Chouinard's Climbing Ice is superb. I've read it at least 15 times and refer to it still today, more than 30 years after its publication and before the advent of coffee-grinder screws, step-in crampons, and leashless tools. I would go far to say that the book is cutting-edge, even in this modern era of ice climbing.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
Rippling Water Ice is Nice and Will Suffice! Bump
wbw

climber
'cross the great divide
Aug 6, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
Now we're getting somewhere. Chouinard's Climbing Ice is superb. I've read it at least 15 times and refer to it still today, more than 30 years after its publication and before the advent of coffee-grinder screws, step-in crampons, and leashless tools. I would go far to say that the book is cutting-edge, even in this modern era of ice climbing.

I don't know ms ..., personally I think that it is a classic, but rather dated. All of the emphasis on on French technique seems quaint when front-pointing is so much faster and secure. It's one thing to stop and rest the calves by placing the crampons sideways to the slope, but using that technique as much as Chouinard pushed it, for movement, even back in the day just seemed unnecessary, and rather contrived. It used to make us feel guilty for frontpointing.

I do admit that it looked all masterful and stuff, in those great pictures.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
French technique is way exciting once the angle increases and requires more concentration and courage than slamming in front points. These early seventies articles and Climbing Ice are really where French technique lives on!

These photo trips were also where Tom Frost refined the alpine skills that served him well on Annapurna South Face, Ama Dablam and Kangtega.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Aug 9, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
Hadn't read this in a long time. Thanks for posting it!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
Slippery Bump...
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 20, 2011 - 10:11pm PT
Great shizz this.

Even though I'm more of a rock man with a gammy leg myself.....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
The shizz is starting to frizz up real well right about now...Sharpen 'em up Frenchie!
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
SAWEETTTT.......
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
Der Sierra eis bump!
Powder

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Jan 4, 2012 - 08:50am PT
Wow

Great read. Thanks!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 10:15am PT
Bump for the fine points!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 9, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Bumping and marking so I can give this a read later when I have time.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 25, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
Winter fun today ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 12:54am PT
Since we are still on the first page...The Outside Ice Climbing issue December 1977. Classic stuff...Ice 9 no less!















Thanks to Jim Phillips for this one.
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
Feb 26, 2012 - 12:56am PT
Still have my Chouinard crampons and Zero ax. Seems like yesterday!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Slippery Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
Cat O Nine Bumps...
Messages 1 - 20 of total 43 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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