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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 5, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
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A classic Ascent 1971 survey of the state of the frosty art four decades back!
Yvon Chouinard photo of Doug Tompkins soloing on Hell's Lum, Cainrgorms, Scotland.
In the V-notch, Palisades.
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perswig
climber
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Those boys knew how to keep their heels down.
And the friction coefficient of wool on ice.
Nice read.
Dale
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Now we're getting somewhere. Chouinard's Climbing Ice is superb. I've read it at least 15 times and refer to it still today, more than 30 years after its publication and before the advent of coffee-grinder screws, step-in crampons, and leashless tools. I would go far to say that the book is cutting-edge, even in this modern era of ice climbing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Rippling Water Ice is Nice and Will Suffice! Bump
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Now we're getting somewhere. Chouinard's Climbing Ice is superb. I've read it at least 15 times and refer to it still today, more than 30 years after its publication and before the advent of coffee-grinder screws, step-in crampons, and leashless tools. I would go far to say that the book is cutting-edge, even in this modern era of ice climbing.
I don't know ms ..., personally I think that it is a classic, but rather dated. All of the emphasis on on French technique seems quaint when front-pointing is so much faster and secure. It's one thing to stop and rest the calves by placing the crampons sideways to the slope, but using that technique as much as Chouinard pushed it, for movement, even back in the day just seemed unnecessary, and rather contrived. It used to make us feel guilty for frontpointing.
I do admit that it looked all masterful and stuff, in those great pictures.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
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French technique is way exciting once the angle increases and requires more concentration and courage than slamming in front points. These early seventies articles and Climbing Ice are really where French technique lives on!
These photo trips were also where Tom Frost refined the alpine skills that served him well on Annapurna South Face, Ama Dablam and Kangtega.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Hadn't read this in a long time. Thanks for posting it!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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Slippery Bump...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 20, 2011 - 10:11pm PT
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Great shizz this.
Even though I'm more of a rock man with a gammy leg myself.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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The shizz is starting to frizz up real well right about now...Sharpen 'em up Frenchie!
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
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SAWEETTTT.......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Der Sierra eis bump!
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Wow
Great read. Thanks!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 10:15am PT
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Bump for the fine points!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Bumping and marking so I can give this a read later when I have time.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 25, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Winter fun today ;)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Since we are still on the first page...The Outside Ice Climbing issue December 1977. Classic stuff...Ice 9 no less!
Thanks to Jim Phillips for this one.
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AKTrad
Mountain climber
AK
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Still have my Chouinard crampons and Zero ax. Seems like yesterday!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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Slippery Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Cat O Nine Bumps...
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