The Life of a Teton Guide- Willi Unsoeld AAJ 1960

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
A classic period piece from the great Willi Unsoeld about the plying the trade in the Tetons from the 1960 American Alpine Journal.




The last three sentences are straight from the heart...a guide's heart.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
The classic evacuation shot of Willi from Everest- The West Ridge.

James Lester photo.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jul 24, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Another great one. Thanks Steve.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
Willi Bump!
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Aug 16, 2011 - 11:17am PT
Sorry I missed this when first posted. Thanks. Not much has changed in 50 years, especially Willi's observation on the high cost of living in Jackson Hole.
Although mostly tongue-in-cheek, Willi's final observation on the impact of the experince on our clients can revive the most hard-bitten guide. I can recall my fascination, when the first client I guided onf the Grand, sat on the summit and cried.
Armando
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 16, 2011 - 11:23am PT
The dood radiated an aura that was good to bask in.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 16, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
"guide, oh guide, where do i spit?" ah well--and some people sneer at the climber's hat as being merely decorative" ...

... cunningly downgraded in difficulty (which is easy to do) ...

... before a man takes up guiding, he should get most of the desire for really tough climbs out of his system ...

delightful article--unsoeld is entertaining and insightful. he had me youtubing "men of harlech"--look out, clients, here comes the harmonica.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
Bump for DR!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 4, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
I remember at the AAC annual meeting at the Claremont Hotel in Berkeley where he gave a talk on Nandi Devi the climb and the loss of his daughter, there was not a dry eye in the crowd.

Eloquent man.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
Bump for the guiding life and light!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Nice shots Jody!

Good to have you back around again!
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jan 2, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Jody, that looks like Hangover Pinnacle on the lower slopes of Symmetry Spire. Is it?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 2, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
Any other F*#king Greeners in the crowd out there?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 2, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Thanks, Jody!

A Tyrolean traverse in 1957 must have been quite a challenge. For example, what sort of harness or bosun's chair did they use? The awkward way that he's draped over the rope in the photo suggests that he couldn't just hang below - and I don't think he was slacklining.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jan 2, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
I'll never forget coming out at the bottom of the Garnet Canyon trail into Lupine Meadows right behind Willi one summer in the late 1950s. He gave a mighty yodel and across the meadow,through the front door of their log cabin, out stepped his wife Jolene with blond pigtails, followed by his kids who yelled back to Willi. It was right out of a Disney movie from that era! A treasured memory.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Jody- Ask your dad what he recalls of first meeting Willi and what he thinks about the OP article.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 3, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Thanks, Jody. Can anyone who may have done a Tyrolean in the 1950s or 1960s comment on how it was done?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jan 3, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
Ouch!
Branch

Trad climber
Alberta
Jan 3, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
I have always enjoyed his piece Spiritual Values in Wilderness
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jan 4, 2012 - 12:27am PT
Can anyone who may have done a Tyrolean in the 1950s or 1960s comment on how it was done?

Made a seat and waist sling out of rope. Attached it to a carabiner, clipped the biner to the rope - got under the rope and pulled yourself along to the other side. Mostly it was done just for fun, like some kids go out rappeling today. Early 1950s. Might have been my old hemp rope, but probably my first army surplus layed nylon rope.


Bobby Mitchell - Cloudland Canyon, Georgia, ca 1955
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