Is the road to CHIMNEY SPIRE open yet ?

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micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 29, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
I'm gonna have a few hours on Saturday to climb and will be getting an 0 Darkthirty start. Hoping to get on The Beckey Route. Has anybody been up to Chimney Rock/Spire this season?

Is the road snow free or is it still a bunch of deep drifts? Any intel would be awesome. We'll head elsewhere if its a no go on the pavement.



Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jun 30, 2011 - 08:21am PT
Bump.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jun 30, 2011 - 09:20am PT
Where is that spire? I know for sure I have been there, but I can't remember the name of the place. There's a "Welcome to X" route nearby, by whoever the guy was who put up "Welcome to X" routes all over the place. What was his name? Another, what do you call it... Alzheimer moment.
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
A self bump for info here.....leaving in a few hours. I just called Montecito and they said snow shouldn't be a problem but there might be trees down.

ANYBODY KNOW?

We might have to go elsewhere but that summit sure would be nice tomorrow at sunrise.

McCreel, its in Sequoia Natnl Park. Just past the Montecito Resort. I think Herb Laeger was behind all those "Welcome To..." routes.
Send

climber
Earth
Jul 1, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
I drove out that road 4 days ago Micro.
I did run into snow (3 ft patches-impassible), however the snow patches were after the gate, which was open, and pretty close to the campsite. They were even after the split in the road. So you could turn right and go to the upper lot.

It'd be a 10 min. walk from the snow patches to the Crystal Wall.

There were NO closing signs due to nesting falcons.

Have a good climb Micro. I'm heading up Duet in a week. Let me know about the Beckey Route. I'm interested in that one. Are there pins up that whole thing or is it mixed?
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
Supertopo Rocks! Thanks Send. I'll post some photos. Heading out tonight.
Darnell

Big Wall climber
Sequoia Ntl. Pk.
Jul 2, 2011 - 12:06am PT
I was under the impression the chimney rock was closed, you might want to check with the park just to make sure, it's a $5,000 fine. I am the climbing instructor at Montecito, if any of you taco heads make it up this way and need info or a place to stay hit me up.

559-565-3388 Rich Copeland
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 12:44am PT
Arrrrgghhhh.....Dern berds!

Chiquito Dome it is then. Never been there, should be fun. I think we're gonna have a go at the Acolyte

Thanks for the heads up......found his online....
Date: April 14, 2011

SEASONAL CLOSURE PROTECTS PEREGRINE FALCONS


SEQUOIA NATIONAL FOREST The area within ¼ mile of Chimney Rock in the Hume Lake Ranger District, Giant Sequoia National Monument, and Sequoia National Forest is now closed to all entry. The area is a traditional nesting site for Peregrine falcons. The closure will remain in effect until August 15 or until nesting concludes.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 2, 2011 - 01:21am PT
They actually nest on The Monk. They hang out on the Spire.
I've been attacked by angry falcons there. No fun. Ah, well.
Hope you get out there, Micro. There's great climbing in that neighborhood.
Send

climber
Earth
Jul 2, 2011 - 02:06am PT
That's strange I did not see the usual closure signs posted near the gate. There was some literature about falcons but it said nothing about a closure. There is another sign near the campsite and the trail to Crystal Wall. Maybe there is a closure sign there.
It's been closed just about every year in the last six. Was kind of expecting this year. Surprised not to see the post.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 2, 2011 - 02:10am PT
There's a gate now? That makes me sad.
ec

climber
ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 03:42am PT
There's been a gate for years.
Darnell

Big Wall climber
Sequoia Ntl. Pk.
Jul 2, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
Yeah there are two gates, the second one is closed with signs. I drove down there last night, it's only 5 miles from Montecito. Buck rock is also closed right now as are a lot of the roads up here, we had a lot of snow this winter but really the roads are closed due to tree fall. I have seen more trees down this year up here than I have ever seen. (I groom for the resort and the park in the winter)
We climbed a couple routes on the spire last winter and left a offset alien on one of them, so if you find it I would really like to get it back.

We also tried to climb "welcome to chimney rock" 5.10+ last winter, got shut down by snow and slimey water, looks like there was some recent rockfall on the route also.

Some good routes nearby on big baldy and little baldy are open right now though.

I am looking for a partner for angel wings and or black Kaewea (sp?) this fall if anybody wants to do it.
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 01:06am PT
We went and climbed The Acolyte on Chiquito Dome near Shuteye instead. Had a great morning on the stone, drove 1:45mins home and were back by breakfast. Thanks again for the heads up. Hey Darnell, did you know Carl, the groomer before you up at Montecito, I I. I lost touch with him after he left.
Darnell

Big Wall climber
Sequoia Ntl. Pk.
Jul 4, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
Yeah Carl is in Yellowstone now, do you need contact info for him?

I groom now for Montecito and Kings canyon. I am always in need of a partner up here if you want to climb. Buck rock opened yesterday, not the best climbing crag though, but easy to get to now.
Climbing in the chimney rock area is pretty cool in the winter if you arwe interested, we can either take a snowmobile or the groomer.

Cheers!
Send

climber
Earth
Aug 19, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
Rock open yet? The Moro closure stopped a while back.
Anybody been?
corniss chopper

climber
breaking the speed of gravity
Aug 19, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
Never forget our 1st visit there - we were just about to leave after sunset when some girl screams an unrepeatable profanity while pointing west.

Looking out I knew immediately its was just a rocket launch from Vandenburg but no one else has a clue. People were getting worked up about UFO's and aliens.
I nodded 'sure guys...what else could it be?' :) Why spoil the drama.




Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Aug 19, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
I lived there for three weeks one season. Excellent neighborhood. Fun climbing. Cool boulders you can play on right there. For a little warm up.
Send

climber
Central Sierras
Aug 25, 2011 - 04:45am PT
Send

climber
Central Sierras
Aug 26, 2011 - 11:01pm PT


Chimney Rocks now Open




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