Runout, Saxony, 1922 (pic)


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Oakland, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2011 - 01:55am PT

Friend sent the link, blew my mind.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 14, 2011 - 01:57am PT
Wow!! Looks like the cord is tied to his back, rather than the front?
rick d

ol pueblo, az
Jun 14, 2011 - 02:01am PT
we are weak and fat.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 14, 2011 - 02:04am PT
Like it matters? I bet he was relaxed.

Trad climber
mountain view, ca
Jun 14, 2011 - 02:28am PT
Hemp rope.. Why bother with it at all? I guess it was that 'style' thing

Oakland, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 02:50am PT
I can't make out what's going on at the belay - is there a partner there? Wedged body belay? Or is the guy rope soloing?

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:19am PT
I see two feet at the belay stance wearing what looks like the old kluttershoes,
so I'm guessing a hip or shoulder belay.

With that run out, he better have a good anchor.

Jun 14, 2011 - 03:35am PT
nice image,

Did the link your friend sent have the photographer's name?

Perhaps you could post that, too.

Fair use is fair use.

Trad climber
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:31am PT
Great pic le_bruce!

Climbing in Saxony was from the very beginning at an extremely high level in the commitment/style/sack department.

The route is Illmerweg, and that is the FA with Paul Illmer leading, ground up, onsight, using knotted chocks and the occasional hand-drilled ring for protection, at a level that still can hold surprises today (VIIc or about 5.9/10). the route is on Falkenstein, one of the most prominent towers in Saxony and a true treasure chest of historical ascents from the super fun super classic Schusterweg to the awe inspiring, wall-eye inducing Buntschillernde Seifenblasen by the master himself, Bernd Arnold.

By the way: credit goes to Walter Hahn, photographer extraordinaire.


Trad climber
Here and There
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:55am PT
Incredible picture! Doesn't much matter whether the rope is tied in front or back, there doesn't appear to be much of anything used for protection. Not sure what would happen if he fell onto that belay but it couldn't be good.

Balsy for today's standards but using the equipment available in that day? Super balsy. But then he must have known that he was essentially free soloing at that point. The leader must not fall?

Again, an incredible image.


Jun 14, 2011 - 06:10am PT
According to the strict local regulation, the Sächsischen Kletterregeln (in force since 1913!), climbing is only allowed on free standing towers/pillars, so the main reason for carrying the rope is to allow for abseiling.

Berg Heil!

(P. S.: Yes, I know, there are actually three exemptions from the above mentioned rule - due to historical reasons.)

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 14, 2011 - 10:46am PT
Can either of the cognoscenti comment on his further progress? That looks
highly problematic with or without a rope on backwards.

Trad climber
Jun 14, 2011 - 10:47am PT
Just did a brief google & found the photo was from John Gill's site Section H4. There are lots more fantastic images too! They could've been taken yesterday they look so "modern".


Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 14, 2011 - 11:07am PT
I'll add to Jan's comment about needing a good belay...a fully paid health insurance plan and a waiting ambulance.

When I met old Oliver Perry-Smith in 1965, his grandchildren asked him if he'd ever fallen; his comment was something like "Hell no...I'm still alive." He admitted to "a few scrapes and short tumbles," but nothing serious.

At the time, he was living across the street from my uncle in South Denver. he still went out and mowed the lawn with a push-type lawnmower, at age 85!

Oakland, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
Lasti, great context info - exactly what I was hoping for.

Good call on fair use, but the only info I've got is this url:

Not Gill's site, by the looks.

Jun 14, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
Many pages of this kind, starting here:
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
Nice story from Rodger.

I wonder if the guy in the photo is the same one who just soloed Phoenix?

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
So inquiring armchair minds still want to know if the intrepid manila-man
was headed up those giant overhangs.

Cumberland Plateau
Jun 14, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
Check out page 4 of Mr Gill's site. It appears that he does continue up.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
Jun 14, 2011 - 06:08pm PT
Looks like the back wall at Stoney Point.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 24 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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