Is the term "French free climbing" offensive?

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2006 - 12:40pm PT
i am working on a How to Climb El Capitan DVD. in writing the script, i want to explain the type of aid climbing where you are mostly free climbing, but every once in a while you pull on a piece or step in a sling. i have always heard this referred to as "French Free Climbing." But i don't know if:

A) this is offensive to french folks
B) there is a better term for this type of climbing
C) anyone really cares

thoughts?
WBraun

climber
Feb 10, 2006 - 12:45pm PT
c) Oh man, there goes the neighbor hood ......
Russ Walling

Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
Feb 10, 2006 - 12:46pm PT
French Fries = Freedom Fries

It will probably only rile up the Frenchies. How many of them are in your target market?

That seems to be the official term for it though...
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Feb 10, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
Oh man...Now your showing them how to do your topos?
Hootervillian

climber
Zak's Cabin
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:04pm PT
probably only if your french.

how are non-stance anchors classified?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
Chris, if you cave in to the french, then we might be bigger pussies than they are.
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:09pm PT
I think they would be honored. Beside "Freedom Free Climbing" is just too weird.
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:10pm PT
Just call it "pulling on gear", mention the term "french free" as equivalent, then give an explanation of how that term came about. Then your bases are covered.
spyork

Trad climber
Fremont, CA
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:12pm PT
Geez, dont be so politically correct!!!

French Free is not so bad a thing to say. Changing that is almost as bad as changing French Fries to Freedom Fries.

If anyone serves me 'Freedom Fries' I will throw them back.

Maybe if you have drawing of French people with bombs on their heads...
eddie7

Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
I asked my wife, who's French, and she's cool with it.
She feels it's not derogatory.
Go with it.

cheers.
Loom

climber
167 stinking feet above sea level : (
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
It's an excellent oxymoron.
Muckus

Mountain climber
Las Vegas
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
Chris:

I think you are right to be sensitive to this issue and I'd recommend you not use "french free" in a guide book. I'm not qualified to be a purist when it comes to technique, but it seems to me that hanging or stepping on artificial pro, however briefly, is a transition from free to aid climbing. You could avoid engendering hard feelings and be consistent with established definitions if you described using pro for support as "aid".
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:31pm PT
Sort of like cartoons of the prophet Mohammed, you might not be offended, but others could be...if your intent isn't to raise a ruckus or a debate, these things should be considered.
pc

climber
Eastside
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
Doesn't bother me but I'm not French. If you really want to be PC post the question to UK rec.climbing or summitpost.org

pc
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:35pm PT
Parenthesis are your "friend."
Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
Chris, have you not already used the term in your road to the nose book? I think you said it is a valueable skill...

We live in the good 'ol USA, you have freedom of speech, use it.

the term French Free is not offensive and you should not even think twice about using it. You did not make up the term, it has been around for as long as I can recall. Is McDonalds going to stop using the term french fry because it may be offensive.

I dont think that there will be rioting in the streets of France because you used this term.

If we keep cowering and are so worried about offending someone else we will give away our freedom.

The term "gay" means "happy", but now if a hetrosexual guy uses it he can offend a homosexual guy. So does this mean that the theme song to the Flintstones where they sing "have a gay old time" is now offensive? its all BS.

jim thornburg

climber
el cerrito, ca
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
Hi Chris,

It's such an old term, and a style that's practiced way more in Yosemite now than anywhere else.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:56pm PT
Well "freedom free" and "EU Free" aren't going to work. And if the shoe fits and is labeled in foreign units then I'd say call a spade a spade. I do think you should be more concerned with explaining the typical/accepted use of the tactic rather than what it's called. I think from a couple of the posts above that's where the potential for misunderstanding and confusion lie.
Wade Icey

Social climber
the EPC
Feb 10, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
Elipsis...are "more friendly."
tomtom

climber
Seattle, Wa
Feb 10, 2006 - 02:16pm PT
A0: pulling or stepping on gear.

Simple enough.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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