Everest and Lhotse Summited in 20+ hours!


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Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
They used supplemental oxygen and had sherpas fix ropes on Lhotse while they were climbing Everest.

I am curious what folks think about this.

It seems to me that forgoing the pure alpine style for "glory" lessens this accomplishment, but it is quite a push, nonetheless.


Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
May 28, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
High altitude trail running?

Pretty neat in its way. Just knock off everything in the neighborhood before leaving. Now everybody will be doing it.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
May 28, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Kinda like flashing a 5.14 after doing a shoulder stand.

Now someone will need to do it unassisted.

Uli? Where's Uli? Oh, I think he's there. This might inspire him.

May 29, 2011 - 01:29am PT
Aghh...To what end? I have climbed the diamond car 2 car in 19- hours 198 times. But I always had only one great friend with me each time and never had to pay her/him.


Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Run like the wind.
May 29, 2011 - 08:48am PT
I was clipping some bolts on a sport climb yesterday Mr. E, pondering the Big E and all that cheating going on up there. How do those people dare presume to defile those summits with such base tactics?



Mountain climber
May 29, 2011 - 09:07am PT
Not that the pure physical feat isn't remarkable, but the Climbing article linked says "21 hours between summits". This is certainly not 21 hrs from base to base, which is kinda what it sounded like at first.

Still, thats a hell of a lot of altitude gained/lost in 21 hrs!

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK
May 29, 2011 - 09:19am PT
Impressive. If I met them I'd be glad to buy a beer and hear the story.

Yet I'm easily impressed and will buy just about anyone a beer and listen to how they got their car out of the mud last Wednesday too.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 10:22am PT
Mike's a yank who is the in the vangaurd of manifester destiny, having moved into Skunk Hollow and scooped up one of our fine beaver pelts.

We'll buy him a beer but there's no way he'll hear the last of sucking O's and jugging fixed lines!
He'll regret the whole idea by the time we're finished with him

Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
May 29, 2011 - 10:54am PT
If you don't think climbing anything is done for "glory" much of the time then you're in denial.

Now, obviously, had they done it without fixed lines it would be friggin amazing.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 11:30am PT
It should be remembered that Mike is just a working stiff like the rest of us. He got his client to the summit of the Big E and back down safely, punched out on the clock then tagged Lhotse for a lark.

Using O's is like us using safety glasses and ear protection. As for fixed ropes, avoiding them would be more or less ridiculous.

Still, we'll rag on him endlessly just because thats what friends do best.
steve shea

May 29, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Hopefully this little stunt will fade into well deserved obscurity. Not even close to Loretan's round trip of the Hornbein Couloir in 40 hrs or Messner's solo 3 WEEK RUN across the himal. The south side of Everest, S Col route is not much different than a ranger/naturalist tour in Jellystone Park.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 29, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
I'm with Coz on this.

Be nice, I have known this "kid" since the day he was born (Santa Cruz) and all BS aside, in the climbing world of today with fixed ropes to Heart on the Salathe, friggin sport route bolts proliferate on once sacred walls and celebrity speed climbing events on El Cap with all the hype of Hollywood what is there to be so anal-lytical about. It's not like Everest is a virgin. The rules went out the door years ago. If you want to draw comparison to Uli then perhaps everyone should stay home.

Fire away!

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
May 29, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
Folks are probably over estimating the altitude gain.
Lhotse is about 2000 feet above the South Col.
So you are talking aprox 12000 feet of elevation gain in 20 hours.
Aprox the altitude gain involved in climbing Whitney from Whitney portal twice with no down climb- something relatively easy for many of us.
Still a lot of hiking but it puts it in a little more perspective
I wonder what kind of O2 flow they used?
2 liters? 10 liters?
How many bottles did they have stashed?

Most of me wants to say it is bad ass to be over there anywhere in those mountains let alone summit.
And I am not a fan of the holier then though alpine cult nonsense.

But although jugging El Cap instead of climbing it is not a perfect analogy I think it gives an aproximate analogy. I dunno, maybe it is more like being guided up El Cap.

Still amazing to be exploring that ground over there- I would love to do what they did.
Yet I didnt even feel right about letting a sherpa carry my stuff from
Lukla. Where as the superstars with attitude get all thier crap hauled up the entire approach. Still just about everyone takes a plane to Lukla which knocks off a ridiculous amount of troubles.
It's all a silly game really.

The dude who did it in the best style then died leading a moderate crack climb a few years later.
So to each his own.

I hope I get to go back there someday.



Trad climber
May 29, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Can you imagine planning this around camp. "So we are going to try and summit Everest and while we are there you guys fix lines on Lhotse so we can Jug them when we get back down. Then notify the media for a press release and a photo op when we are done" they would have been laughed out of camp bitd. I really hate whats going on over there.

Everest ...producing motivational speakers year after year out of "climbers" who could not tie into the end of a rope without a locking biner and a guide...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
OR.... really old man, you do have a vivid imagination don't you?
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
May 29, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
OR- ya, the publicity is super lame.
Good perspective...
I'm on board..
The worst of society seeping into the mountains.

I'm having a hard time telling the difference between free climbing El Cap on piton manufactured finger locks or even aid climbing El cap though.

I wonder if the percentage of people who have the genetics to free climb El Cap, in its present condition, is not higher then the ones who have the V02 max and genetics to climb Everest without 02.
steve shea

May 29, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
OR that's exactly what goes on. Only not in camp but thousands of miles away, way early in pre expedition planning. Not all, but many of these expeds are funded based on a "first". First to ski, first to snow board, first woman, first ... These firsts become a vehicle the sponsors then can hang their hats on and use it in post expedition hype to recoupe expense money and or advertise. But these firsts are manufactured and to me quite meaningless in the context of what has already been done in good style. This was not good style and not newsworthy. But I have to confess I have taken part in these extravaganzas. I have worked for ABC, BBC, ESPN, several Breashears films so I have seen first hand what a crock it is. Selfish really...let's see what can we do to get the sponsors attention so we can get a free trip to Nepal or Tibet. It's even worse, we got paid. All this while the sherpas risked their lives for our pursuit of BS. To the general public this is a big deal. It's not! The only thing it is really good for is the economy of Nepal and especially the sherpa families. Pardon the rant, I guess I'm too traditional. But I'm jaded. I'd much rather climb a 7000 meter peak in good style than ever go back to an 8000 meter peak and have to use O's and all the other attendant BS. I'm not strong enough nor motivated enough to want an 8000 meter summit because of what I would have to give up to get there.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
May 29, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
"I'd much rather climb a 7000 meter peak in good style"

And there we have our answer..
I'm with ya 100 percent.
This sh#t is lame and even parasitic..
Thanks for the perspective.



Social climber
State of decay
May 29, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
Ho Hum........

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
May 29, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
Why stop flying in Lukla. Just take a heliride to the South col. Don't forget yout espresso machine, and have a bunch of sherpas unroll miles of ladders to the summit. Where do we stop?
Climbing a mountain is just that. Go through every step to get to the summit on your own. There are no Bonatti or Messners left in this world. Just a bunch of high altitude media seeking tourists that usually do not even have the ethics to pick up their junk from the mountain! This "event" is not worth mentioning.
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