Everest and Lhotse Summited in 20+ hours!


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Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
They used supplemental oxygen and had sherpas fix ropes on Lhotse while they were climbing Everest.

I am curious what folks think about this.

It seems to me that forgoing the pure alpine style for "glory" lessens this accomplishment, but it is quite a push, nonetheless.

Spider Savage

Mountain climber
May 28, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Kinda like flashing a 5.14 after doing a shoulder stand.

Now someone will need to do it unassisted.

Uli? Where's Uli? Oh, I think he's there. This might inspire him.

May 29, 2011 - 01:29am PT
Aghh...To what end? I have climbed the diamond car 2 car in 19- hours 198 times. But I always had only one great friend with me each time and never had to pay her/him.


Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Run like the wind.
May 29, 2011 - 08:48am PT
I was clipping some bolts on a sport climb yesterday Mr. E, pondering the Big E and all that cheating going on up there. How do those people dare presume to defile those summits with such base tactics?



Mountain climber
May 29, 2011 - 09:07am PT
Not that the pure physical feat isn't remarkable, but the Climbing article linked says "21 hours between summits". This is certainly not 21 hrs from base to base, which is kinda what it sounded like at first.

Still, thats a hell of a lot of altitude gained/lost in 21 hrs!

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK
May 29, 2011 - 09:19am PT
Impressive. If I met them I'd be glad to buy a beer and hear the story.

Yet I'm easily impressed and will buy just about anyone a beer and listen to how they got their car out of the mud last Wednesday too.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 10:22am PT
Mike's a yank who is the in the vangaurd of manifester destiny, having moved into Skunk Hollow and scooped up one of our fine beaver pelts.

We'll buy him a beer but there's no way he'll hear the last of sucking O's and jugging fixed lines!
He'll regret the whole idea by the time we're finished with him

Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
May 29, 2011 - 10:54am PT
If you don't think climbing anything is done for "glory" much of the time then you're in denial.

Now, obviously, had they done it without fixed lines it would be friggin amazing.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 11:30am PT
It should be remembered that Mike is just a working stiff like the rest of us. He got his client to the summit of the Big E and back down safely, punched out on the clock then tagged Lhotse for a lark.

Using O's is like us using safety glasses and ear protection. As for fixed ropes, avoiding them would be more or less ridiculous.

Still, we'll rag on him endlessly just because thats what friends do best.
steve shea

May 29, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Hopefully this little stunt will fade into well deserved obscurity. Not even close to Loretan's round trip of the Hornbein Couloir in 40 hrs or Messner's solo 3 WEEK RUN across the himal. The south side of Everest, S Col route is not much different than a ranger/naturalist tour in Jellystone Park.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 29, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
I'm with Coz on this.

Be nice, I have known this "kid" since the day he was born (Santa Cruz) and all BS aside, in the climbing world of today with fixed ropes to Heart on the Salathe, friggin sport route bolts proliferate on once sacred walls and celebrity speed climbing events on El Cap with all the hype of Hollywood what is there to be so anal-lytical about. It's not like Everest is a virgin. The rules went out the door years ago. If you want to draw comparison to Uli then perhaps everyone should stay home.

Fire away!


Trad climber
May 29, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Can you imagine planning this around camp. "So we are going to try and summit Everest and while we are there you guys fix lines on Lhotse so we can Jug them when we get back down. Then notify the media for a press release and a photo op when we are done" they would have been laughed out of camp bitd. I really hate whats going on over there.

Everest ...producing motivational speakers year after year out of "climbers" who could not tie into the end of a rope without a locking biner and a guide...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
OR.... really old man, you do have a vivid imagination don't you?
steve shea

May 29, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
OR that's exactly what goes on. Only not in camp but thousands of miles away, way early in pre expedition planning. Not all, but many of these expeds are funded based on a "first". First to ski, first to snow board, first woman, first ... These firsts become a vehicle the sponsors then can hang their hats on and use it in post expedition hype to recoupe expense money and or advertise. But these firsts are manufactured and to me quite meaningless in the context of what has already been done in good style. This was not good style and not newsworthy. But I have to confess I have taken part in these extravaganzas. I have worked for ABC, BBC, ESPN, several Breashears films so I have seen first hand what a crock it is. Selfish really...let's see what can we do to get the sponsors attention so we can get a free trip to Nepal or Tibet. It's even worse, we got paid. All this while the sherpas risked their lives for our pursuit of BS. To the general public this is a big deal. It's not! The only thing it is really good for is the economy of Nepal and especially the sherpa families. Pardon the rant, I guess I'm too traditional. But I'm jaded. I'd much rather climb a 7000 meter peak in good style than ever go back to an 8000 meter peak and have to use O's and all the other attendant BS. I'm not strong enough nor motivated enough to want an 8000 meter summit because of what I would have to give up to get there.

Social climber
State of decay
May 29, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
Ho Hum........

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
May 29, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
Why stop flying in Lukla. Just take a heliride to the South col. Don't forget yout espresso machine, and have a bunch of sherpas unroll miles of ladders to the summit. Where do we stop?
Climbing a mountain is just that. Go through every step to get to the summit on your own. There are no Bonatti or Messners left in this world. Just a bunch of high altitude media seeking tourists that usually do not even have the ethics to pick up their junk from the mountain! This "event" is not worth mentioning.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
May 29, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
You guys are cracking me up! Messner and Bonatti? I'm sure if Mike could read this he'd be laughing his head off!

Look, nobody is saying this is the epitome of the 7th grade or anything. The guy put in a day of work (so to speak) then went for an after work hike! Kind of like Croft soloing the north ridge of Stuart before guiding for the day. Its just a goof, but a really awesome goof none the less

Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2011 - 01:03am PT
Bruce, thanks for your working-man's perspective. It makes the jaunt a fun one, leaving the lessening of it for others.

I can't help but think of Goran Kropp (RIP) riding his bike from Norway as the alternate perspective.

Thanks for all your thoughts - I learned something from this.

Trad climber
May 30, 2011 - 01:24am PT
What's with all the speed? Slow the hell down and enjoy the climb.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
May 30, 2011 - 01:33am PT
Perhaps we need a thread slagging motivational speakers, and their alleged feats. The current fad here is people "climbing" Kilimanjaro, for some worthy cause or other, and making a big hoorah about it.
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