New Tollhouse Rock guidebook


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Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
It's finished! We're sending it off to the printers.

Tollhouse Rock means so much to so many people, and it's so rich in history, and the climbing is just plain fun. It was a great project to be a part of and I met some really cool people along the way. The guide comes alive with Dwight's artwork and wonderful prose. We added a ton of history and it's full color with some watercolor thrown in to keep it artsy. Here is a peek...

Credit: Slater
Credit: Slater
Credit: Slater
Credit: Slater
Credit: Slater

Thank you so much to everyone who helped out, it's a great book and we hope it lives up to your expectations.

Long live the 'house!

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
May 14, 2011 - 12:07am PT
Congrats Tom!

Social climber
san joser
May 14, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Good looking watercolor topo there.

Are all the topos watercolor?

Gym climber
May 14, 2011 - 01:56am PT
sweet. first trip there only a few weeks ago. where do i send my box tops?

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 14, 2011 - 02:42am PT
I'm looking forward to it, Tom. Thanks.


Trad climber
May 14, 2011 - 05:03am PT
How would we go about getting one of these?

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
The local Fresno REI I think is going to carry them.
Maximus Press online and probably other regional climbing stores.
I always do the mail me a check and I'll mail you the book deal as well...

Mountain climber
Jun 28, 2011 - 12:22am PT
Hey Slater, Whats your address so I can get one of those tollhouse route books. They dont have them at the Fresno Rei yet.

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jun 28, 2011 - 12:49am PT
nice work Tom!

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
should be back from printers in August at the latest... maybe before?'
stay tuned, will post!

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:33am PT
Hooray. Well done man. I look forward to having one in the bookshelf and out on the rock. But I'm not gettin rid of my hand made, signed 1984 guide. 16 pages of history, done on a typewriter.

Mark Haymond gave it to me when I was in high school over 20 years ago......we never met, so he probably doesn't remember signing it. It reads....

Build on the heritage of the past. Go your own way. Put up your own routes wherever you go. Push into new territory. The rock is waiting!"
Mark Haymond
1984 Tollhouse Rock Guide
1984 Tollhouse Rock Guide
Credit: micronut

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:44am PT
Hopefully, Mark Haymond can back this up, but as I was told, a lot of the early first ascents were accomplished by dropping a 600'+ rope down a proposed route. As the leader climbed up, when he felt the need for a protection bolt, he tied off onto the rope, drilled the bolt and moved on.

I hope this is covered in the guidebook as it is a unique way to establish first ascents and is an interesting commentary on climbing styles.

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2011 - 02:22am PT
Mark was a huge contributor, contributed a large part of the history section, and some sweet old pics that really added that connection to the past.

He was also the first guy to put in an order for two books, even though we tried to give them away to him for free.

Lots of cool T-house old skool guys, glad to have worked (and sent an FA) with Dwight and to have met some of them. Looking fwd to the book release and meeting the rest of 'em.

Thanks for the quote from your guide, that's rad.
this just in

north fork
Jun 29, 2011 - 10:40am PT
How much is it going to retail for? The watercolors turned out good, nice work Dwight and Tom.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
To bhildon, The top rope bolting stories slowly change over the years. Truth is, no one had a 600 foot rope. We used the 50 meter ropes standard for the day. We would eyeball a line from below. We would rap it, placing bolts where it seemed to make sense. Sometimes it took a couple of trips to the rock to get the route prepared. Then we would cross our fingers and do it from the bottom up, hoping that we had not put in a route that was too hard for us to climb. We considered Tollhouse a practice rock. It was all great fun. - Mark

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jun 29, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
Hey Mark! I remember Lenny telling me the same. You heard from him lately? Need to get my Technos over to Barry soon. Was it you who told me you went up to place an additional bolt on Marvin's Mantle a few years back to protect the "ankle breaker"? there's a route. Still grainy to this day. I remember taking a skidder to the ground and eventually landed on my back with my head downhill and in the bushes! A few scrapes and scratches but was laughing because Carlos was standing there with his jaw still dropped in shock. LOL!!

A tidbit of T-house trivia........'The Day Carlos Fell To The Earth' (fell soloing up to the Cap Rocks area....all the way to the bottom! Garage sale at Carlos truck that same day....)

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Jun 29, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
I always thought that was urban legend. Please....gimme the whole story!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Jun 29, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
Carlos and me were talking about that the other day!!!

Still gets him I think just remembering it.

Mega fall....but not all the way, Mooch is joking.

Mooch I've never even heard of Ruffles, but it must be a good one to make you go head over heels for it :) where is it?


EDIT: I looked at Tom's first post and located Ruffles....but still doesn't ring a bell.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 29, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
Hi Mooch,
I talked around a bit with other climbers and decided not to add a bolt to Marvin's Mantle. So the crux pitch is still R rated.

Trad climber
Corona, CA
Jul 11, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
Tom --

You said you do the mail thing ... send money, and you send the Tollhouse book.

Btw, got an address ?
And how much do I make the check for ?
(you know, stupid little details ...)

    Tim B

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