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tseaney
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 12, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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Saw this wall on my way to Camp Nelson, just wondering if anyone has any beta on it.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 12, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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I've always been curious about that too. We have a place in Camp Nelson and I really scrutinize the thing everytime I drive by. Seems like it should have more stuff on it, but the only thing I know about is the one route in the Needles guide.
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tseaney
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
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Yeah its a good looking wall. A little chossy but not too bad at all. I read that the old needles book at a little info in it but I've never seen the book.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 12, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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There's one route up the middle left side somewhere, probably the least resistance. Ron Carson and friends I believe. Now is the time to go there, or earlier in the year. Soon it will be friking hot and growers will be about. Its an area that gets lots of suspicious fires too when its hot. Royal Robbins did a slide show for us back when....SSCA....and I was fortunate to have dinner with him at the Ponderosa Lodge. Was told he didn't do climbing anymore, but thats the first thing we talked about...he asked what the big wall was lower down the canyon.
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tseaney
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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It was beautiful up there today. But your right, I bet that place is miserable in the summer. I was thinking the exact same thing about growers as I was driving through. Its nice that it faces south though, not as much brush and undergrowth as there could be. The north facing slopes across the river look nasty.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 12, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
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You know, my bad, I was getting it mixed up with the Powerhouse Wall, or whatever that thing is by the power plant. There's like a seven pitch .11a on it, I think and some other stuff. One of the local who put some routes, Patrick Paul, I think still lives in the area. I believe he also has an account on summitpost.org.
Curious what you find out.
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tseaney
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
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I think sky garden is the big wall on the left side of the road if your driving to camp nelson between the campground and the power house. I think powerhouse is to the right when you get closer to the actual powerhouse. I could be wrong though. The only info I've been able to find is out of Rock n' Road and its just a brief description and directions.
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ec
climber
ca
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May 12, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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Email Fixdpin, he did the very first FA up there with Leversee and turned Carson onto it...ya like rattlers, do ya?
 ec
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tseaney
Trad climber
Sanger, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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Thanks for the little bit of beta and I just sent him an email. That place does look like its got some snakes in it too. Good looking wall though.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 24, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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A little thread drift, but ec, how's Yokut Spire? You get a tantalizing view of it from the start of the Slate Mt. trail by Quaking Aspen. Worth the hike?
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 24, 2011 - 06:04pm PT
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And.......ever since that BIG rock slide off of the Powerhouse Wall the routes there are a lot more sobering I'll bet. The slide left a huge talus slope almost all the way to the river, nearly damning it....that would have been an interesting situation for Edison.
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ec
climber
ca
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May 24, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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Fat Dad,
The rock is real good up there, with a different kind of fracturing than other local rocks. There are some bold projects to be done yet. Can't say much more 'bout that...
ec
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 28, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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Bump. Just drove by that thing today. Anybody find out anything about those crags?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Yes. Looks like (it would be) a terrific fall-spring crag when it's snowing or cold higher up.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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edit: oops, hoobs!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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First photo is the limestone on the other side of the river.Hoob.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Top pic looks like Powerhouse (hard to tell from the angle and can't see the big talus field at its base). If it is, it's not limestone and about 500' tall. I don't recall any big, obvious limestone cliffs like that in the Tule River Canyon, at least ones visible from Hwy. 190.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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this angle precedes my top pic in camera sequence. jeff's right about other side also a tighter crop from my top pic might reveal scale
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Limestone other side of the Tule River. Yes FAT it's Limestone on the south side of the river in that very spot. this is the part im going after.. on the Lime.. STEEP.
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