Beyond Lunacy


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Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
Looked nice from the top of P1. Saw Clint's post up of the topo here:

Anyone recently climb beyond Lunatic Fringe and liked it? Bolt conditions?
"Tales of some heads up 11c climbing on dirty rock?"

Yay or nay?

A pile of dirt.
May 11, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
The route is not dirty. The only part that might be called dirty is the "happy hummock traverse" which is really fun actually and super exposed! The 11.c is very short (super clean) and we pulled through on 1 cam there on the FA. Just go do it! There is very little 11 on the route. It's not dirty - really.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2011 - 02:58am PT
In Ed's recent RORP trip report, there was a party doing it.

(Jessica following Alan on Beyond Lunacy, p5)

When you mentioned dirty 5.11c, maybe you are thinking of Jeff's report from January?
He mentioned dirt on the holds on p4 (5.10c, not 11c).
This may have been due to hummmocks coming down from above in the heavy rains this winter.
Maybe even since rinsed off by more rain?

Incidentally, on p2 ("Beyond the Fringe"), we originally went to the right up near the top. Jeff mentioned a somewhat dirty crack on the left (would probably be quite nice if it was cleaner).

On the last page of the thread, Marshall mentions climbing it on April 30.

Bolt conditions? Well it was just done 2 years ago, so pretty much brand new.
Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
May 12, 2011 - 05:03am PT
Some years ago I did a pitch above the Fringe with Don Reid and...shoot, I've forgotten. I was amazed; I'd never known there was a continuation. It was shortish and, if I recall, trended to the left. It wasn't classic like the Fringe but it definitely had interest. But no way was it as hard as .11c.

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
May 12, 2011 - 09:47am PT
Rick, what you did is the long-established "Beyond the Fringe," which is everything you described (worth doing, relatively short, and 5.10c).

They are talking about a newer route which continues above that. The newer route is called "Beyond Lunacy."

A pile of dirt.
May 12, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
Clint makes an excellent point about some dirt falling from above but I suspect it's all washed off by now - plus dirt falling from other route activities is allways an issue but a good rain washes it off. It's really not dirty. And yes the bolts are all nice shiny 3/8th's.

Go climb it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
For the rack is there any benefit from bringing an extra piece of a certain size? Any offset pieces that are useful?

Oakland, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
Hey Vitaliy,

Good meeting you the other day. I haven't met too many ST folks offline. I had a gut feeling after we talked: there's KGB running in this man's family history. I'm right, aren't I?

We bailed before the 11c pitch when we gave Beyond Lunacy a run, so I can't speak for the whole route. But for the first pitch off of Lunatic, I think you're def. going to want some small nuts/brass, and be a bit wary of some features. That was the only pitch where I had a heads-up feeling. Everything else that we climbed = bomber rock, and standard rack.

There was a pin missing from the .10b roof higher up - making for a spot where you'll hit a ledge if you fall. May have been replaced by now?

Such an AWESOME climb, hope to go back this spring and get up to the HH traverse.

Here's our TR of awesome failure:

A pile of dirt.
Dec 12, 2013 - 02:28pm PT

I don't recall about the offsets? Eric might have placed a green/yellow for the roof on the last pitch and on the 2nd to last or 3rd to last I seem to remember similar sizes. The short 11cish stretch is thin ( <=red alien) I think.

Please be nice to the hummocks on the traverse :)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Eric on the FA just above the belay shown in the next image

and Linda following Eric on the pitch that ends on the diagonal ramp on the RORP

know that he is watching...
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
my son climbed it a couple weekends back and said it was great. The standard rack for Lunatic Fringe worked the rest of the way too. The traverse is dirty and you need up to a #3 Camalot to protect it. He french-freed the 11c crux and said you need a couple smallish cams (blue TCU) there.
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