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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 15, 2011 - 10:19am PT
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I picked one of these up at Flandersfest, and finally had the chance to look at it.
The first thing i have to say, is that i agree with Beth. The are a lot of real hard routes in this guide. Most of them i will never be able to climb.
appears to be very well written and laid out. Lots of pretty pictures, and some good stories too.
i really like the GPS coordinates.
On page 311, there is a picture of a climber on Loose Lady 10a. don't think so. pretty sure that is Oyster Delicacy 11b.
the pictures of climbers on routes are nice. never seen a pic of anyone soloing EBGB. kinda makes it look like an easy low angle slab, which i know isn't true.
wouldn't have minded seeing more pics of people on easier routes, but that is just a minor detail.
counted pics of people climbing, and this is what i came up with.
5.7 - 2
5.8 - 2
5.9 - 2
10a - 7
10b - 1
10c - 2
10d - 3
11a - 2
11b - 5
11c - 5
11d - 2
12a - 4
12b - 4
12c - 1
12d - 2
13a - 1
13b - 3
13c - 2
13d - 1
14a - 2
would have liked to see more photos of climbers on stuff in the 10a - 10c range, but my overall impression so far, is a job well done.
thanks robert
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Apr 15, 2011 - 10:30am PT
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i can't think of a better name for a guidebook author than "miramontes".
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RtM
climber
DHS
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Apr 15, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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Thanks guys
One of my prime goals was to give a good mix for everybody, with emphesis on .10 and under. Funny thing about writing guides is that sometimes you don't know what you got until you have a book in your hands - monitor hypnosis, me thinks! I believe the book lists around 1700 routes sub .11
At any rate, I am already fired up to address many things for a 2nd edition.
The shot on 311 is Oyster Delicacy (my wife climbing), and also on pg428, the climber is Kevin Daniels (sorry Kevin!).
As for all the hard climbing shots, I blame Greg Epperson, he had too many rad shots of people climbing hard stuff!!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 15, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
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No joke, tied for best guidebook on the wall at Nomad with Vogels new guide. Suh-weet!
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Apr 15, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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Being a long time JT regular I picked up both of the new guides.
I got a kick out the the "Excellent Moderate Sport Routes" on pg 310
They go from 11a to 12a
Moderate..... ?? oh well
I like plugging cams and hexes anyways
Thanks for all your effort
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 15, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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I too, bought one at the Flandersfest. I think that Zip and I grabbed the first of them.
Well done!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 15, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
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Indian Country and New Queen Mountain stuff......that's the ticket for me.....thank you, Robert....I'm on it....
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Apr 16, 2011 - 12:01am PT
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Todd, don't tell me you haven't already done all of the routes at Indian Country!? Long walk but fun climbing.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 16, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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Jan.....I'm just getting to know my way around the Park....it's a big place.........(I'm like most people on supertopo....lots of posts...little climbing.....).....
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Captain...or Skully
climber
My ready room
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Apr 16, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Yeah, right. Just a wee bit, huh?
Good on ya.
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all in jim
climber
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Apr 16, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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Great book! Well done.
A correction for the second edition: "oyster delicacy" is the wrong name. The left one is Path of the Oyster and the right one is Oyster Bar.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Apr 16, 2011 - 05:08am PT
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I got the Miramontes book.
More bang for the buck.
Can't see getting the New Vogel guide till I find it on Amazon for $5. $44 buck for a SELECT 500 guide. WTF?
The Miramontes book has some flaws.
The Sport/Trad/TR color coding is off. ON EVERY PAGE!!
Quoted from the book "Blue denotes a sport climb. These can usually be led with a rack of quickdraws".
Just look at the HEADSTONE. Trad (red) routes on the Headstone??????
Look on page 297. "Excellent Mild Sport Routes"
#3 Is "Cryptic".
Go to page 292 and Cryptic is RED. There are 4 bolts, not three.
#6 "Silent Scream"
Turn to page 399. RED!!
You can argue the WHOLE North Astrodome SW Side. Is it blue or red? Some bolts spaced to far apart to be a "Sport" climb?
Page 331 "Fear of Music". RED! 9 bolts in 80' with bolt anchor.
Page 335 "Indian Giver" on Lost Pencil. RED! Other climb is BLUE.
Page 339 "Hot Lava" RED!! 4 bolts in 30 feet to bolt anchor.
Page 360 - OVERBOLTED ROCK - All RED!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 16, 2011 - 08:55am PT
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What is or is not a sport climb at Joshua Tree is a slippery slope;.....What if it is sport bolted but has no sport anchor?....What if it is sport bolted and has a sport anchor, but you need to bring only one piece.......What if it is sport bolted , has a sport anchor, but has a run out at the top......What if it is sport bolted, has a sport anchor, but the bolts are 1/4".........What if.........(someone needs to make a sport guide for Joshua Tree......so all the gym weenies can have climbs that they don't have to wear diapers on.....).....who don't like to climb with only a rack of draws and look up and see Petzel hangers winkin' at ya.....clip a sport anchor, and lower quickly to the beer.....c'mon.....besides;...that trad gear is expensive, heavy, and tricky to place....and who's to say it won't pop out when you hangdog on it anyways.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 16, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Show me a guide which don't have mistakes......with so many routes, especially climbs which have had very few ascents;.....there are bound to be a few mistakes;.....makes for good adventure;....and keeps you honest;....Robert is giving you'all lots of information and put out the humongus effort to get that info;...go with it and have fun;....unless you want Robert to come with you to the crags, carry your pack and lead the climbs for you too......(that may cost extra....)....
And while you are checking out certain pages.....make sure to check out page 172....it's stellar, and probably worth the price of the guide by itself..........(I'll sign it if you see me at the crags and have a pen with you.....)....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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(Note;...most of the routes on Overbolted rock are NOT sport climbs;...Robert was correct on this one;....many or most have missing hangers,missing anchors, or chopped bolts..or are run out...only the Blvd of Dreams on the far right could be called a sport climb....Indian Giver is not a sport climb at all...it's a scary run out old school, but the Weasel Boys Arete (AKA Number Two) IS a sport climb.....and Silent Scream is not a sport climb either;...for most sport climbers couldn't rig the trad anchor on top of the pillar after someone chopped the bolts on top...and those Headstone route are a gray area;...too run out for some plastic pullers to be called clip ups...so Robert was playing it safe there.....).SW face of N.Astrodome;..yeah; another gray area; are they sport climbs or not?.....hmmmmmmmm.....see;..it's easy to make a mistake or two...even in a review or "correction"........
Don't sweat the small stuff and split butt hairs;...overall;...awesome guide with lots of info about climbs you haven't done yet , cool pics, and did you check out page 172 yet?.....
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2011 - 10:07am PT
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thx for the input Todd, but just need to correct a slight error on your beta.......the money shot is on page 172.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:11am PT
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Thanks, Zip...I made my corrections....(see;...I can't even post on a website correctly......just shoot me in the head....)...
Don't hold your breathe for the Vogel guide to be on the bargin counter for $5.....that may take 20 years or so for that;...Randy's new book will be a favorite for generations to come;.....look it over carefully;...it's a brilliant guidebook with the right climbs for the world of rock climbers;......if you do the climbs in Randy's guide, you will truly be on some the best the Park has to offer....and with 500 or so to choose from,.....it will keep you happy and busy for a couple of decades at least.....(Best buy both guides, quit your day job, move out here, and start gettin' busy.....)...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:19am PT
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Todd, thanks for pointing out p173 (10 Great Easy Routes). That is the list I've been looking for!
Who is the guy about to pop off on pg 172?
And look at all those bolts. Total grid bolting job. That,s what happens when those gym weenies get a Bosch.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:25am PT
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Seems like a great book.
After only ever using my old Vogel Bible the Miramontes guide felt like a gluttonous luxury.
(I still only own the bible, still love it .)
The "Best/Classic" sections is a great idea.
FA info, color, new stuff...
Great job!
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