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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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I am looking to get some shoes for climbing cracks, OW, slabs etc. I had nagos/mythos, and they are pretty good I thought. But is there any high top shoes that would be as good...I saw some good high top La Sportivas but they were 170$ *sad face*
I could just tape them ankles for OW 'fun' but if there are shoes that would eliminate that need, why not..
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jfailing
Trad climber
Terrible Taft
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
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The Sportiva TC Pro's rule. Worth the $170. Check the gear reviews on this site, mostly everyone seems to like them a lot.
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drc
Trad climber
Durham, NC
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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Mythos is the best all around shoe I've had.
The thin toe profile rocks in smaller sized cracks. They smear great and edge ok. But then again I don't climb harder than mid 10.
True, they quickly lose their allure as the crack sizes get bigger, but I found it worth it to have to tape ankles/wear socks, for the all day comfort.
That said, they do wear out fairly quickly, especially the shoelaces around the toes.
V
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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I tried on all known high tops I could find in 3 states. The TC PRO won hands down for in-shop comfort. But others cost way less. Can't remember their names, though, because of those TC Pros.
I still havn't put the $ down, but thats because of health reasons. I found then for 156 or so on Amazon.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
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Any comments on the Acopa JB? Thanks.
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hossjulia
Social climber
Eastside
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Feb 25, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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YES! My original Ballet's are getting a little worn. Only shoe I've ever found that fits my weird feet & climbs so well..
Now if that sz 8 locker has is a 40/40.5, I'll have to do some serious bidin'.
Had no idea you could still get Boreal's in the US, of course it would be Neptune's, woot!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Sportiva TCs are the ones I was referring to with 170$ comment : ( REI gives back 10% right...and I can return them after use : ) jk
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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Those Ebay Kaukulators up above are a great find if they're your size.
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avid
Trad climber
sacramento, ca
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
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V -- I just got 5.10 Moccasyms. Haven't tried them in cracks yet but I hear they're one of the best for trad. I'll let you know how they are if I make it out this weekend! BTW what are you doing Sunday?
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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Acopa JB: people find the sizing unpredictable, so be sure to buy where you can try them on or exchange them if they don't fit.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
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I use the Sportiva Kaukulator (the blue shoe in TK's first ebay link , it's not a Mega). I like them a lot for long alpine routes (high top keeps gravel out too on scrambly bits), and for anything wide. It helps I got a killer deal on them at Second Ascent in Seattle. Otherwise I'd get a pair of TC Pros given what I've heard and that Sportiva normally fits me well. Too hard to find the JBs to try on and the Grandstones seem a bit clunky, but maybe not more than my Kaukulators really.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
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yeah, my mistake...didn't look long enough when I was rounding up those links...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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Chris, I seen a lot of people use those too, but they are not high top. It seems as I might have to just buy a low top and tape up the ankles for OW in which they will be rubbed to bloody mess if not protected.
MY PROBLEM IS..I bought mythos, liked them, and shoe laces on BOTH ripped after some 3 weeks of moderate crack use...even laces in my nagos didn't rip after MONTHS of abuse (yea they are different laces, but crap when you make a shoe designed to be good for crack climbing can't you make laces more durable! and without that retarded special way to tie them!!!!! If they were laced like regular shoes, I would just change them, quick and easy!)
PS: We will be boarding Sat+sunday...snow conditions should be GREAT this weekend. It will be REAL powder!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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get a pair of Kaukulators off of eBay or some such... my opinion is they're the best high top, still.
I haven't used the TC Pros, yet... but considering what you can buy a slightly used pair of Kaukulators for they are hands down the best value.
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D.Eubanks
climber
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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Everybodys feet are different, but friends of mine say the Sportiva TC Pro's...are the shoes.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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TC Pros are the way to go. Worth the price, I have two pairs. As good or better than Kaukulators in most applications except Inverting. Much more durable, in my experience.
That being said, if you can use size 8 Acopa JB's, I've got a pair of almost new size 8's I'm selling for $60.
If you win the lottery, and want a dedicated offwidth shoe, rather than an alround shoeget Ganda hightops, $235. You can use thm on the approach, too!
And, if you but ten minutes into it once, mythos are easy to relace. Do them one at a time so you have a guide. Also, think about technique. I usually get two resoles out of a set of laces. Use the sportiva, laces. Worth the $5! the things on the ends are key to lacing, and the diameter is optimal for adjustments. Thicker makes them unadjustable and thinner tears the leather.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
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I have two pairs of blue Kaukulators and two pairs of the brown Kaukulators. The blue are way better, but if someone wants to trade something climbing related for the browns they are size 40 and in good shape (because they are not as good as the blues).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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Yow, Mariachers! a piece of history!
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