david lama and cerro torre again..

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supafly

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
paste from jason kruk's blog:

This year Chris Geisler and I won the John Lauchlan memorial grant for an unconventional project. We are in Argentine Patagonia at the moment with hopes of climbing the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre (also know as the Compressor Route) without utilizing any of Cesare Maestri's bolts.

Also planning on something similar are our friends Colin Haley and Zach Smith. Naturally, there has been A LOT of talk about the SE ridge between us: comparing strategies, possible variations to the line, equipment, etc. About a week ago David Lama and a crew of mountain guides and videographers arrived with intentions of resuming their project from last year - freeing the line of the Compressor Route, with Red Bull again the sponsor of the project.

The four of us as well as Rolo Garibotti have been in several dialogues with the Red Bull crew, hoping to gain some insight as to their intentions and the style in which they choose to attempt their project. We wanted to let them know of our plans so that everyone can be accommodated on the route and to ensure that our experience wouldn't be impacted by their tactics.

It has come out today that Lama and crew plan to climb to the top of Cerro Torre following Maestri's bolt line, then rappel from the top and rappel-bolt the best line for free climbing. Lama claims that this is the only way in which he will be able to complete the project within the next 5 years. He also says he can take the sh#t storm that is sure to ensue.

I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it.
supafly

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
agreed but what is the chance of that happening?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
He also says he can take the sh#t storm that is sure to ensue.

Maybe some WOS tactics are needed from above! I'd like to see that on RB video.
bmacd

Social climber
100% Canadian
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
chop their lines - thats a clear message the locals are against you

and then keep chopping them ...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Well, it has finally come to pass. This is absolutely huge. I wonderful if Lama will be slaughtered even?

The boldest spire in the world may be rap-bolted---the nightmare that we kept having in the sixties, Pilgrims, is now about to emerge from the mist. Really.

RR said a couple decades ago, “Sport climbing is the child that wants to eat its mother”
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
stupid is as stupid does.
rap bolting cerror torre is just so gay..
f*#k that kid..
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
It must be the shroud of photogs and 'Allez,allez!' men that keeps the talented climber from seeing that what he does is not in line with current ethics. I'll admit that I'll probably never climb Cerro Torre, but the beauty of the mountain dictates a respectful ascent, not an ease based ascent.
Climb it on it's standards, not your own self imposed limits, please.

Randall_C

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
Is he trying to make Cesare proud?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
good one Randall!
Brian

climber
California
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
Obscene.
adam d

climber
The Bears, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
a link to the "guestbook" on his site...

http://www.david-lama.com/en/servicenavigation/gaestebuch.html

and his "contact" information for his "Promotion"

http://www.david-lama.com/en/servicenavigation/kontakt.html

east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
seems like some 'ol fashioned surf style localism is in order, you and your crew need to pound some respect into the kook and his f@@#ked-up film bullshit
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
heres an idea,
that crew that is there now should just ground up and send that rig and rub it in his pussy ass face.
booya!!
hb81

climber
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it.

A good hard punch to his face maybe?

Rob_James

Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
I'd love to meet Lama someday. That dude's begging for some comeuppance

I know Kelly Cordes has some punch-on pedigree and standing on the Torres - wish he was about there now
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
unbelievable......
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
Colin Haley is a bad ass. I hope he sends his project and kicks Lama's ass all in the same day.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
If it takes place, it will always be clear just as it was by Maestri's "whatever" climb: Lama's project will be just as repugnant and tainted.

Usually such farces are undertaken by older desperate men trying to leave their fingerprints in the stone; here we have a very young fool at work, a twink really. I will assume he will avoid the summit snow mushroom too, if it is in bad shape. Just like Cesare did.

I don't think this is "the next page" in climbing ethics. Instead it is another freakstorm we see every now and then. No matter what,
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
I love it. A few of you are threatening to fight this kid?

The term 'blowhard' comes to mind.
Brian

climber
California
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
I just sent some messages/rants to Red Bull and some of the other sites listed above. In addition to the standard threats of boycotts and whatnot, people should make it clear that, to the climbing community, these tactics look weak, cowardly, and retrograde. If the climbing community--including Alpinist, Climbing, Rock and Ice, and so on--can shape the public perception of this as a chickenshit act, it will run counter to the image Red Bull wants to project: rad, cutting edge, and so forth. Hopefully folks will somehow stop it from happening down there, but if Lama follows through I want the act to turn to ash in his mouth and the collective mouth of Red Bull, something that will brand him as a coward for all of history and that will mark Red Bull as a company that supports punks rather than folks really pushing the edge.

Brian
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