david lama and cerro torre again..

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supafly

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
paste from jason kruk's blog:

This year Chris Geisler and I won the John Lauchlan memorial grant for an unconventional project. We are in Argentine Patagonia at the moment with hopes of climbing the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre (also know as the Compressor Route) without utilizing any of Cesare Maestri's bolts.

Also planning on something similar are our friends Colin Haley and Zach Smith. Naturally, there has been A LOT of talk about the SE ridge between us: comparing strategies, possible variations to the line, equipment, etc. About a week ago David Lama and a crew of mountain guides and videographers arrived with intentions of resuming their project from last year - freeing the line of the Compressor Route, with Red Bull again the sponsor of the project.

The four of us as well as Rolo Garibotti have been in several dialogues with the Red Bull crew, hoping to gain some insight as to their intentions and the style in which they choose to attempt their project. We wanted to let them know of our plans so that everyone can be accommodated on the route and to ensure that our experience wouldn't be impacted by their tactics.

It has come out today that Lama and crew plan to climb to the top of Cerro Torre following Maestri's bolt line, then rappel from the top and rappel-bolt the best line for free climbing. Lama claims that this is the only way in which he will be able to complete the project within the next 5 years. He also says he can take the sh#t storm that is sure to ensue.

I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
If that is the only way HE can do it, HE should step out of the lineup and let someone more qualified do it...

Charles
supafly

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
agreed but what is the chance of that happening?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
He also says he can take the sh#t storm that is sure to ensue.

Maybe some WOS tactics are needed from above! I'd like to see that on RB video.
bmacd

Social climber
100% Canadian
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
chop their lines - thats a clear message the locals are against you

and then keep chopping them ...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Well, it has finally come to pass. This is absolutely huge. I wonderful if Lama will be slaughtered even?

The boldest spire in the world may be rap-bolted---the nightmare that we kept having in the sixties, Pilgrims, is now about to emerge from the mist. Really.

RR said a couple decades ago, “Sport climbing is the child that wants to eat its mother”
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
stupid is as stupid does.
rap bolting cerror torre is just so gay..
f*#k that kid..
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
It must be the shroud of photogs and 'Allez,allez!' men that keeps the talented climber from seeing that what he does is not in line with current ethics. I'll admit that I'll probably never climb Cerro Torre, but the beauty of the mountain dictates a respectful ascent, not an ease based ascent.
Climb it on it's standards, not your own self imposed limits, please.

Randall_C

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
Is he trying to make Cesare proud?
QITNL

climber
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
Weld_it said it first and said it best:

send the hate trane down the tracks bras:

Red Bull Feedback Page
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
good one Randall!
Brian

climber
California
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
Obscene.
adam d

climber
The Bears, CA
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
a link to the "guestbook" on his site...

http://www.david-lama.com/en/servicenavigation/gaestebuch.html

and his "contact" information for his "Promotion"

http://www.david-lama.com/en/servicenavigation/kontakt.html

east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
seems like some 'ol fashioned surf style localism is in order, you and your crew need to pound some respect into the kook and his f@@#ked-up film bullshit
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
It seems the race is on.

Free by fair means has always had a limited shelf life but canned process can take (intentionally) for ever.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
heres an idea,
that crew that is there now should just ground up and send that rig and rub it in his pussy ass face.
booya!!
hb81

climber
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it.

A good hard punch to his face maybe?

Rob_James

Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
I'd love to meet Lama someday. That dude's begging for some comeuppance

I know Kelly Cordes has some punch-on pedigree and standing on the Torres - wish he was about there now
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
unbelievable......
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 21, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
Colin Haley is a bad ass. I hope he sends his project and kicks Lama's ass all in the same day.
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