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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 19, 2011 - 11:30am PT
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I have already posted a similar topic on UKClimbing. I live in Ajaccio on the island of Corsica where I “work” as a photographer. I have also been a collector of climbing equipment for many decades now, specializing in "artificial chockstones". I wrote the original article Nuts' Story: 2001 a Nut Odyssey published in the British magazine High Mountain Sports in June 2001 to commemorate the fortieth anniversary of the first purpose designed nut ever marketed, the John Brailsford Acorn. You can find this article on the following link:
http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm
Here is what I believe to be the only advertisement for the Acorns that was published in Mountain 12 in November 1970.
In spite of a great deal of research, there are still a few old protection devices which my collection is regrettably missing, and among them, the two biggest sizes of the Acorn. The reason why I really would like to complete the set of John Brailsford’s Acorns as soon as possible is that these mythical nuts, the real cornerstones of the Nuts’ Story, have half a century of history in 2011! For this occasion, I would love to celebrate such an anniversary with a full set of these rare nuts in the Nuts Museum. If you have any of these historical nuts and are willing to part with them, I would be over the moon. These treasures would find a fantastic retirement here in Corsica.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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These treasures would find a fantastic retirement here in Corsica.
If I supply you do I get to retire in Corsica too?
I don't have any but if the answer is yes then I guarantee I'll get some!
Mythical nut bump!
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jan 19, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Wonderful history. Thanks for posting the link to your article.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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bump!
Maybe, somewhere in Britain, an old but still active climber will read my request... Who knows...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You are much closer to the source than we are over here, my friend.
I have some recollection that the wired versions shown at the bottom were sold as Clog "Truncated Cone Nuts". Have you heard that product name?
I love the top nut detail which solves the main design problem of a bulky knot! A second size to place once the acorn slides down.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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I love the top nut detail which solves the main design problem of a bulky knot! A second size to place once the acorn slides down. John Braisford Acorn was the very first "nest of nuts".
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That is one scathing review! LOL
Very funny that both companies threw that design back into the mix when they did.
A funky shot of the Clog offerings with a big ole Peck Cracker.
I bought this fistful of nuts at the Boulder Mountaineer almost forty years ago. Bob Culp was such a good guy that he would let people sell used gear back in the corner!
What the hell are these? Clearly no attitude adjustment allowed.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I should be in the "Nuts Museum"
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Mimi
climber
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SteveW: Steve says we'll all end up in the Old Nuts Pension on the sunny side of Corsica. I can't wait!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 10, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Mimi
Give him my best. It sure was great seeing him
earlier this year.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Nov 10, 2012 - 10:44am PT
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some sweet history. Nice!
"Acorns", good name for stoppers
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 10, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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I wonder if Roger Turner is still around forty two years on...
Are you after the two slung sizes of upgraded Acorns (with a knurled top) or the cabled versions to complete your nutstory?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 05:26am PT
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I do have the small Acorn on rope (with the machine nut), but I am still searching for the two bigger sizes. One of two small sizes in the Nuts Museum was given to me by Roger Turner. It was the only sample that he and his lovely wife Beryl had treasured.
Below is another Acorn in good condition, complete, with its long "hawser" laid rope and the machine nut. In the early sixties British climbers used to carry their nuts around their neck. This Acorn belonged to Hank Harrison, of the Summit Club, with whom John Brailsford did the East Face of the Grépon in the early 1960s.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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In the early sixties British climbers used to carry their nuts around their neck.
You can say that again. They got this whole bold climbing thing started.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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Hehe. Nuts.
A few years ago, a buddy and I bought a pair of truck nuts and mounted them on our mutual friend's truck without him knowing. He drove around for a week. Great prank.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Nov 12, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Anybody here ever climb with actual machine nuts? I've only read about that. Some of the climbers here have gear that looks like it was made by blacksmiths, and were climbers back when the concept of "clean climbing" was invented.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 25, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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This is what the well-hung clean climber looked like in 1971!
Tom Frost photo of the Boss.
I liked the long slung days myself. Battling a fist crack and ducking out of a shoulder slung Hex to place it. Great stuff!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 25, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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I love the machine nut inside the acorn! I'll post some pics of some things I made about 1971 for nesting nuts.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 25, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
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What about Colorado nuts?
They were pretty early.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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1967-68 if I recall correctly on the Colorado Nuts.
Lots of nut shaping going on ahead of the 1971-72 Chouinard designs that had to wait until Tom Frost came back from Annapurna South Face by way of England in 1970 and was sent out cragging in the Lake District with a rack of nuggets du jour selected by Chris Bonington along with a few persuasive words about clean climbing.
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