New rope technology - pretty convincing.

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jsj

climber
Boulder
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
Apparently the core is bonded to the sheath which is what makes the difference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rizo2GbfV_4
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Hey Jim E...

What do you think about this?

Prod.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
CALIENTE!
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
Isn't this the $500 rope?

DMT
del cross

climber
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
How often are you on jumars near the end of a rope that isn't tied off?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
What does this do for the chinese finger trap aspect of how ropes work?
Danholio

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 10, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
I guess your back-up knot would catch you if the sheath ripped while jugging. I guess it could happen but in practice, it's never happend to me nor have I heard of this happening. Anyone out there heard of this happening?

http://www.beal-planet.com/sport/anglais/unicore.php
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 10, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
That guy juggin on the trip?
Bad Acronym

climber
Little Death Hollow
Dec 10, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
Looks like the intended usage is indoor or canyoneering/caving.

Edit:
But they do mention toproping and lead belaying advantages on the website...?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Dec 10, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
That's pretty interesting, thanks for posting.
Wondering when the good 'ol boys will chime in with the obligatory anti-French crap?
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
It looks like the sheath failure in the first few tests led to total failure. Am I mistaken?

I would like to see some dynamic testing comparing this rope vs comparable normal rope weighted acorss a cutting edge.

Prod.
jsj

climber
Boulder
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
It's hard to tell if the weighted ascender just pulls the sheath off the ends of the test sample during the failure, or if somehow the core is breaking too...

If it's just the sheath pulling off then this only seems like it would be relevant for those who jug (over edges) frequently (or use mini traxions or other sheath grabbing devices).

But if there's actually total failure being prevented by this new technology, then it seems like all climbing (especially lead) applications would benefit.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 10, 2010 - 04:41pm PT
After watching the video I understand the comments of those who say "who jugs up near the end of an untied rope?"

Looks like the biggest benefit would be to stop gym ropes from getting all stiff and funky at the ends from sheath shifting.

bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Dec 10, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
It looks like the sheath failure in the first few tests led to total failure. Am I mistaken?

I'm under the impression the sheath failure led to core (total) failure too. I think that's why they moved the camera out to the side angle.
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
After watching the video I understand the comments of those who say "who jugs up near the end of an untied rope?"

Maybe I'm dim... (Ok I am), but I still do not get this at all.

Prod.
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Dec 10, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
The ropes are weighted using an ascender, which grabs the rope sheath and, on the standard-style rope, pulls it down off the core. This is particularly a problem if you are on ascenders near the end of an untied rope and hence can pull the whole lower sheath off and fall to your imperfect day.

After seeing this, I'm leaving my box-cutters at home.
jsj

climber
Boulder
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
If it's just the sheath failing, then what you see happening is the weighted jumar pulling the sheath completely off the core of the rope... but if you had a knot tied in the end, the jumar and torn sheath would only slide down to that knot before being stopped...

...unless the jumar pulled right off the rope altogether which I can easily imagine happening on a messed up sheath like that.
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Dec 10, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
I seem to recall another manufacturer recently coming up with a different solution where the sheath strands are woven through the core strands. Can't for the life of me remember who it was, but I'm curious how it would fare under a similar test.
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Dec 10, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
I like the UNICore. I bet that it passes the edge test too. Pretty much makes sense on all ropes. Might be good on ice with all those sharp points.

I was just talking about buying new ropes with a friend. I will be keeping with what ever I find on sale.

Having trouble finding a 60m or 70m Unicore. Found the 200m, 20m, and 30m. I don't see myself buying 200 meters at a time.
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 10, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
Now I get it, you guys mean tied off as in back up know as well as the end of the rope knoted.

Duh, told you I was dim.

Prod.
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
Dec 10, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
It appears to me the setup is rigged for the sheath to pull off the core near the free end.

"How often are you on jumars near the end of a rope that isn't tied off?"

Exactly.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews