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Messages 1 - 20 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Dec 9, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
The minute you need to get in a tight chimney with your new homemade rig above you're hosed ....
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Dec 9, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
Looks cool, could be nice for alpine. Thanks for sharing
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
Yeah, I guess and could just put a double lenght runner and a krab on to keep it just below me in chimneys. I've been through that before and even though it works, it's not pretty. Or I'll just try and avoid chimneys, like the rest of us, eh?

I think it's pretty sweet clipping resistance in the aquarium tube, it's 10mm in diameter and not that soft and rubbery.
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
Nothing new under the sun but I also crafted my own belay seat (bosun's or boatswain's chair if you like) Mostly because it's good fun and the plastic/textile one from Petzl comes at around 200$. A butt hammock is out of question!


A 25x50 centimeter piece of concrete workform plywood and 4 meters of 8mm cord did the trick, works like a charm! =)


Cord's crossed underneath and tied together with a double fisherman.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 9, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
nice. some of the guys on bigwalls.com do some cool stuff too.

thought about doing russian aiders? i have yet to try them, but since there are so few out in the wild, I've put my hopes away of trying them.

wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
Yeah, I've been thinking about russian aiders after having noticed that their users swear by them but the idea of tieing hooks to my knees feels really weird. I bet it works just fine but to the price of having hooks on your knees..? =) Then I just don't know.

I'll check that site out though, bigwalls.com, gotta love your DIY! Right?

Thanks!
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Dec 9, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
Nice work, I think your pack/gear sling should work just as well as some of the stuff like the Grivel Manu pack/sling. If you add a little padding to your belay seat you'll like it a lot more after sitting in it for a couple hours too.

Here are some wall bags and a mini-haul/rope bucket I made not long ago. I recycled some burly fabric from marine/industrial stuff, did some hand sewing, and used my normal home machine.

wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 06:39pm PT
Nice work, looks great!

Isn't it just so much more old school and hardcore if you put at least some of it together yourself??? Love it!

I did actually glue on a layer of sleeping pad on the belay seat later, after reading up on the subject online.

Also, the remains of the sleeping pad fitted my haulbag interior perfectly. And I'm good with sleeping on a 3/4 lenght pad. Sweetness!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
Holy frig! Mikko Routala?? Is that you??
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
No, sorry Dr P.

My name is Mikael Jarmland, Mikko for short and with a fínnish twang.. =)
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
Ooops. Duh. Finland/Sweden. Sheesh.

Well, get yer ass down to Yosemite this year and we'll drink some beers anyway! Nice lookin' stuff.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
OMB- your normal sewing machine makes bar tacks? nice.
Brian

climber
California
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
Did my first solo with a lawn chair for a "ledge" after reading about how some other guys had done it. Not recommended. I'll have to look for the old slides however...
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
Cheers!
(coming from the wall doctor himself, I consider that a compliment and a half) Thanks!

Will do actually, I'll be spending at least first half of August in the valley. Then I'm meeting up with my wife and kid in San Fran and we're going road tripping in "the cradle of grunge"!

Will you be there in August? Is it crazy hot? I've only been there in October before.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 9, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
When it gets "crazy hot", head for the Half Stone.
You will not bake. Not all the time.
There will be fleece!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 9, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
Sorry, mate - I don't get there til it cools off a bit in September. Mid-September to late-October is the best time for El Cap, but as Capt. Kirk points out, Half Dome will be a lot cooler in August, if you don't mind the slog. Check first to see what the status is on the springs up there to see if you can get water or knott.

And of course, there's always Tuolumne.
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
Thanks,

I was hoping that we'd be able to do something nice and mostly clean on el cap (like salathé or triple direct or something) and then regular NW on Half Dome aswell.

If it's to darn hot in August then we'll just do HD and free climb a bunch.

It would be sweet to use our brand new portaledge too, are there any moderate mostly clean routes that requires a ledge? Or at least that you can bring a ledge on without looking like a complete as#@&%e?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 9, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
Lots of guys bring ledges on Salathe and the Nose, in spite of there being enough natural ledges to sleep on. It affords you the ability to camp where you want and when you want, and doesn't make you look like a weenie.

Lurking Fear goes pretty much clean, but it faces straight west and can get really hot in the afternoon. Zodiac gets straight southern exposure, and goes mostly clean. If you need to nail, it shouldn't be much.

You should just plan to climb whatever route you want to climb whenever you want to do it. If it's going to be hot, plan on five litres per person per day. Bring your 2:1 hauling ratchet, and know how to use it ahead of time. Water is your ONLY defense against the heat. If it's going to be REALLY hot, plan on six litres per day for the first couple days, and then reduce it to five. Plan on climbing in the shade, and chillin' when the sun hits you. Rig up some sort of parasol for shade.

Talk to Kate aka Batgirl - she soloed Mescalito in August. I know she got up early and climbed while it was cool, then hid out under a fly until the shade hit her in the afternoon.

Do Half Dome first as it will be cooler, and the climbing will be a bit easier, though the approach will be painful. Plan on taking along enough food, water and beer to assure your success no matter how long it takes you - and it almost always takes longer than you think - then shut up and climb.

You don't want to come all the way from Svenden just to bail.
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Dec 9, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
Nice to hear that you can bring the ledge without beeing laughed at.. I suppose when the routes are crowded it's good to be able to spread out the bivi's a litte extra.

You just now totally inspired me to not wus out because of the heat. August is what we got and our goal was to climb Half Dome AND The Captain so that's what we're going to to. In that order. And if it's hot then so be it. We'll just bring more water. Thanks again.

Mikko

"You're supposed to listen to the piton as you drive it (...) but of course, when you're soloing and you're scared, you give it a few extra whacks anyway!" -PTPP

Unforgettable!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 9, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Oh, you'll be laughed at, everyone gets a piece o' that. It's all good.
Have fun!

Yer gonna die fer sure up there, mate. Yowza!
;-)
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