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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
SoloBolo
Boulder climber
Midas, NV
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they are the only adjustable tether certified for our SAR rescue missions when attaching yourself to an anchor. they are pretty cool but i havent used them in climbing
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ClimbAK
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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They have become my only personal lanyard system.
I don't use the set of three as typically advertised. Ease of use, results from both pull and drop tests, and lots'o versatility when climbing becomes self-rescue are reasons I have burned all of my daisy chains!
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Sometimes. I keep trying the Purcell, but I find the cluge of cordage more annoying than a PAS that's racked with a biner thru all the loops. I never use a Daisy.
I really want to like the Purcell... but can't quite get over the hump. I lean towards a PAS for Sport routes and just using the rope for Trad. And I have no interest having in slack in the system either way when on a belay anchor.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO Cal
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I have one that a friend gave me. They are great for certain things, but for light and fast climbing, they are too bulky.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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The Sterling Chain Reactor is a better mousetrap for overall climbing applications. The principle drawback of the PP is its small adjustment range and the difficulty of making any adjustments when it is under tension.
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orsemaj
Gym climber
SD
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I am a huge fan of the Beal Dynadoubleclip.
http://bealplanet.com/sport/anglais/page-longes.php#dynadoubleclip
My wife and I bought them after seeing all the French and Swiss guides use them in the Ecrin this last summer. I had mentioned buying them one night in the hut. The next day, I was standing on a snow in a coulour waiting for my wife to rap down to me. I was standing a bit to the side of a ancient pin anchor when the snow collapsed, dropping me hard about 1 foot onto to the anchor ( I was using a static leash ). I nearly shat myself as we noticed many of these pins were pretty suspect and could be removed by hand.
Anyway, as soon as we got to Briacon, we bought two of the Doubleclips. I am a huge fan of the double attachement option. I typically use the longer clip in point, but I have used the short point now and again (I don't leave a binner on this one though). I wear it off to the side and clip it to my third gear loop (past 1,2, haul, and to the 3rd). I have tied overhand and figure eight knots in it to fine tune the length when I have felt that was important (only took a second....).
I would seriously consider this piece of gear.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Instead of the huge Figure Eight to terminate the ends, a double fisherman works great. I usually run 5 or 6 mm cord and tuck it G-string style and clip to haul loop to keep it out of the way.
-JEsse
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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the entire Ouray Mountain Rescue team. I here about them all the time in the Dirty Bird whilst drunken rambling about escaping belays.
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harpo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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For those that use the PP system, how long are they when they are fully extended? I am trying to figure out how long to make mine before I cut the excess cordage.
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WBraun
climber
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I have one always on my harness attached to the belay loop and use it as an adjustable daisy chain.
I've used it for years in that way.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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I have one always on my harness attached to the belay loop and use it as an adjustable daisy chain.
I've used it for years in that way.
Cool. So is it in adition to a normal setup, or do you use it instead of a daisy?
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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I use 10' of the Bluewater 6.5mm dynamic tied with a triple fishermans. Seems about the right length. Deployed, the range is ~2' to ~3'.
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KARLS
Mountain climber
Peyton, Co
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Feb 15, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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There are several reasons to use a purcell over other safety arms.
Cost, Reliability, Multi-Fuctionality and they are extremly adjustable, under load as-well. They have the normal range of adjustment and can be cliped short for fine adjustment.
As far as length for a safety arm. When fully extended you should be able to reach and unlock your carabiner.
Girth it to your seat harness following the path of your climbing rope, dont girth to your belay loop, keep that clean for belaying.
Using Dynamic cord should reduce peak forces during a fall, however by design the prusik will slide during a fall thereby reducing peak load.
Here is a website on how to tie it: http://bothellfire.org/TechRescue/Rope/PurcellPrusik.pdf
You can find drop tests here:
http://www.riggingforrescue.com/reLanyards1.html
If you read both tests you will see that 7mm cordage is safer.
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boris
climber
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Nov 19, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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The great thing about the Purcell prusik is that it's a rope-grabbing tool that can be loosened while the rope is loaded, hence all those self-rescue scenarios where you'd use a mariner's knot or something similar become far easier to perform with this simple piece of cordage. You use the small loop to form a prusik around the climbing rope, then clip into the anchor with the large double strand loop with the double strand loop as large as possible so when you slide the prusik to make a smaller loop the entire device lengthens putting the load back on the climbing rope. Also great as an adjustable personal anchor device at hanging belay stations/rap stations; no need for a PAS or daisy chain, much cheaper than either of those.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nov 19, 2012 - 10:06am PT
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Standard fare in rope rescue.
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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