Jeff Lowe Solos Bridalveil Fall W.O,Johnson Sports Illust 78


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
With Thanksgiving right around the corner, I would like to give thanks to our very own Jello for being so bold and far-sighted and to Jim Phillips for sending this ultra classic and ground breaking December 11, 1978 copy of Sports Illustrated my way. William Oscar Johnson did a fine job of portraying the subject.

Happy Holidays Everyone!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 20, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Wonderful Steve! I hadn't seen this! Thanks!

Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 20, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
Great stuff Steve!

Nov 20, 2010 - 08:34pm PT

Thanks for yet another big value-added post, Steve!
Stewart Johnson

yo mama
Nov 20, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
jello, master of ice.

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Nov 20, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
Remember looking at and reading this back in Wisconsin during my Junior year of High School.. Jello's a hero!

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 20, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
Great blast from the past-thanks Steve and especially thanks to Mr Jelloman.
Todd Eastman

Bellingham, WA
Nov 20, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
Jeff, have a good Thanksgiving. Quite the bar you place in our sport...

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 20, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
That article made me imagine how cool ice climbing would be compared to going to high school. So I gathered up some camping gear and axes and stuff and hitched Friday night to Squamish in '79 because Shannon Falls had froze.

The place was lousy with wool knickers, Salewa crampons and beards brandishing MSR pointy things. I didn't climb the stern falls that time but slashed at more modest goals.

Fell off ice bouldering at the laughing feet of Don Serl, sprayed loud about a cute girl named Heidi who ice climbed without knowing her father sat across the table looking bemused at me. Was ushered, under aged into the tacky red chintz room of the Chieftain Hotel Bar for the first of many times and handed a beer by the HARD CORE.

Slept out in the cold in a sleeping bag under frost bitten stars. Admonished for sleeping at my desk Monday morning by Mr Chave the English teacher. It didn't seem to matter after that.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
Great story Jim!

I wonder how many others were given a shove by this piece to get after that frozen stuff?!?
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Nov 21, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
What a great article! Thanks for posting..
Jeff is the man! and a super cool guy as well!

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Nov 21, 2010 - 01:33pm PT

Bump for Jello--he's quite the fellow!!!!!!

Mountain climber
Nov 21, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
Fantastic! Love those Hummingbirds and Chouinard rigid crampons.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Nov 21, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
Awesome Steve, thanks.

Jello is a visionary!

Social climber
way out there
Nov 21, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
Big push by Jello here as well. I'd tip my helmet...oh, but we didn't wear helmets did we? I'll lift a glass next round to you Jeff.
Rigid SMCs btw...Chouinards were already long out of they would generally break.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Nov 21, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
Jello Rocks!!

What a bold dude that Jello.

Love the classic gear. Too "cool"!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 21, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
Nice reminder of how far ahead of everyone else Jeff was.

Social climber
Telluride, CO
Nov 21, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
Yes, Jello was visionary with the Bridal Veil Falls climb in 1978. This climb was also the beginning of the love/hate affair between the Idarado Mining Company and ice climbers. By the fall of 1979 it was illegal to climb Bridal Veil. Legality and illegality and access has yo-yo-ed back and forth ever since.

Eric Jacobson leased the the Bridal Veil Power Plant from Idarado for a number of years and was fairly open to ice climbing that that did not end up on his deck or went up the "wrong" part of the falls. (Note: Eric also has a hydro power lease on some of the water/pipeline that is part of the Ouray Ice Park and has been pro ice climbing there). Idarado canceled Eric's Bridal Veil lease a few months ago. Time will tell if Idarado tries to shut down Bridal Veil Falls ice climbing now that they have total control again.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 21, 2010 - 09:53pm PT

We're only here for a while and things will always change. So what is your point ?

Sport climber
California originally, Old Pueblo presently..
Nov 21, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
Fantastic post, Steve... Thanks for sharing!
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