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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
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This superb historical survey of Tahquitz and Suicide climbing appeared in Climbing October 1987.
Greg Epperson covershot of The Natural, Johnny Woodward, on the Pirate (5.12c)!
Three Little Fish to follow...
Classic Largo!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Oct 16, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
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Thanks Grossman!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 17, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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It is amazing how many new excellent climbs have been ferreted out at Tahquitz since that article appeared. Bob Gaines is particularly to be credited for his new route efforts.
There are several factual errors and incomplete information (that came to my attention after the article appeared). The information on shoe development in the 1950s and 60s wasn't entirely accurate and Mark Powell's (and others) influence in introducing the Decimal System in Yosemite wasn't really fleshed out.
Also, I think it important to note that the bottom part of Chingadera had not been climbed free by Mark Powell as mentioned, but that Bob Kamps was the force in freeing the entire route and did an amazing job of bolting it on the lead.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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Stellar effort Randy despite any lingering details! Tahquitz was the center of the free climbing universe for several decades and a indispensable training ground for events in Yosemite. Just made to be climbed and enjoyed!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 17, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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One other inaccuracy.
"The now welcome bolt" on the Mechanics Route was chopped shortly after it's placement.
Wilts describes it in the guide as having broken in a fall. Since there are no recorded fatalities on the route and surviving the resulting plunge on a manila rope would be a tale of legendary proportion, that was for sure a ruse to prevent an early bolt war.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
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Who has that Mendenhall hanger now?
When Doug and I interviewed Glen Dawson, I read to him this closing comment from Rick Ridgeway's early Tahquitz article posted elsewhere.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/737755/Tahquitz-The-Early-Years-Rick-Ridgeway-Summit-1976
"But the accomplishments of the early climbers still remain. If you want a good adrenalin rush put on a pair of tennis shoes, tie into an old manila rope, and go climb the Mechanic's Route without clipping into that big bolt on the second pitch. You'll probably agree that these guys did some amazing climbs!"
Well into his nineties, Glen settled into a broad, satisfied grin and let out a proud chuckle. What a cool moment! Still badass after all those decades!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 17, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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Nice, and large enough to be legible too. Thanks Steve.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Oct 18, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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Who was that fellow on the "Flower?" He looks like Tom Michael.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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Kamps Bump!
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Johnny K.
Mountain climber
California
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Oct 20, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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Amazing article,thank you! The mention of the Hinterstoisser Traverse situation was something else.Thank you again for sharing!
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Oct 30, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
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Tahquitz/Suicide; what a great place ! I imagine it busy yrs. ago, but very quiet now. Was just there
and got to enjoy Randy's "Fred", a rather full value route on the Flinestone Wall.
Doug
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Warm dreamy granite bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
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Fun in the sun...Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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Just plain superb climbing and writing!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Ah, the Pirate...
I loved looking at that line. Such a beautiful seam on pure white granite. Way beyond my skilz. I still wonder; is it a crack climb or a slab climb? It was so thin I could barely get the first digit of my pinkies in the pin scars.
Bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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Legend has it that a secret scroll exists which details all the moves on the Pirate. It is buried somewhere near Key Largo...under a giant "W."
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Pirate- desperately hard no doubt, but, guys and gals, it's a friggin PIN SCAR climb!!! People rant about manufactured holds on climbs but then rave about abominations like the Pirate and Serenity Crack. I know that the pin holes weren't put there with the express purpose of creating holds, but they are there nevertheless.
There should be enough gyms in California to satisfy an apparent need to climb on routes that are not natural.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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People rant about manufactured holds on climbs but then rave about abominations like the Pirate…
Now you’re just being grumpy ;-)
Like everything else in climbing this is situational. The Pirate was an aid line first. Then Yaniro freed it and that was the end of folks nailing it. It’s not like Tony chipped away at it until he could do it. He climbed it the way he found it. Pirate really is a beautiful challenge in a great setting on fine rock.
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