Knee Replacements and Rock Climbing

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jeff Thomas

Trad climber
Milwaukie, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
I have to have knee replacement surgery. I would like to hear from anyone - either on this forum or by PM - who rock climbed extensively before having their knee replaced and went back to rock climbing - either successfully or unsuccessfully - after the surgery.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 22, 2010 - 09:32pm PT

Email Philo from this site.
He can tell you stories!!!!!

do a scan on philo, then click on his id, and it'll give
you a screen that you can email him from.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 22, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
Michael Kennedy had BOTH knees replaced a little over a year ago and he's back climbing and enjoying every bit of it.
WBraun

climber
Sep 22, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
I have to have knee replacement surgery.

Why?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 22, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
A warm ST welcome to Jeff Thomas of the "Oregon Rock" guide and author of any number of bold and creative FA's up here in the NW.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Sep 22, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
Get the legs in the BEST condition you can before the surgery(ies). Great muscle tone and strength will pay off wonders in rehab before you have the surgery. Get as much range as you can post op and BE SURE to tell yer surgeon you NEED high flex replacements. They have come a LONG way with knee replacements and like Werner says.....why? What happened to yer original(s) to warrant replacements?
Peace
Michael Kennedy

Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
Sep 23, 2010 - 08:39am PT
Ron is correct. Get as strong as you can prior to surgery and work mainly on range of motion in the first six months post-op. Find a surgeon who has done a lot of knee replacements (practice makes perfect) and who works with athletes (most joint replacements are in sedentary older folks so expectations can be low). Find a good physical therapist who knows knee replacements and works with athletes.

Range of motion is about what I had prior to surgery (not that great but still working on it). Strength is good. I'm not a workout fanatic but do something pretty much every day: walk, bike, ski, climb, swim, stretch. Consistency is the key.

My recovery overall has been slower than some people I've talked to, quicker than others. The first month is hell. By six months you start to feel pretty functional. After a year you barely notice the new knees, apart from the lack of pain. I'm 58 now and almost two years out and most days I don't even think about my knees.

PM me if you'd like to talk, or post specific questions and I'll try to answer.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Sep 23, 2010 - 11:13am PT
Hi Jeff. I may have an interesting perspective on this subject as I am at the denouement of my original artificial knee and will be needing a revision in the very near future. I had a knee replacement nearly 20 years ago when I was 33. I had lived in constant pain for the previous 10 years. During which I had 12 surgeries. Most doctors were loathe to do a replacement on someone so young. The government that yanks my chain wanted me to get a fusion or disarticulation (amputation). I insisted on the replacement. It took the support of my Senators to force the DOL to approve the replacement surgery. In hind sight it was the best decision I could have made. Of all my surgeries the replacement was the easiest to recover from. I woke up painfree for the first time in a decade. Three days later I was walking in a swimming pool. After a ten days I no longer had a need for crutches or cane. Being well versed in the protocol of rehabilitation I knew what to expect. I did take five years off of strenuous activity to maximize the bone growth and adherence of the prosthetics. But then I got back into shoes and harness. I managed to beat all the odds. My surgeon would probably be extremely shocked to know all that I accomplished with his work. That was then when they were mostly doing knee replacements on folks who would pass away before it failed. Today it is not uncommon for young healthy athletes to recieve a replacement after a catastrophic injury. Consequently the design of the pieces parts has improved ten fold. They are now designed to handle the kinds of strains you hope to be able to do after rehab.
I am in complete agreement with Michael and the others about strength training before and range of motion after. To that I want to add that you should be patient. Do NOT let frustration have you pushing too far too fast. You should be more concerned that it last 15, 20 or more years than being able to climb 5.12 within a year. Good luck to you and feel free to PM me anytime. I will answer any questions you have.
Greyhound

Trad climber
London
Sep 23, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
I've been told I will also need surgery as I had most of my cartillage taken out on the left side about 12 years ago. However, I'm trying to keep it going as long as possible and doing loads of core and leg work in the gym.

I'm 50 now and one reason I want to keep it going is because I've heard about developing stem cell research whereby they are growing compatible cartillage.

I want to do El Cap in a couple of years after training between now and then so I don't want to have a year off now.

P.S. anyone know the UK equivalent of Road to the Nose? Tremadog?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 25, 2011 - 11:47am PT
So this is what my knees look like while I stand for a digital Xray. I think the image should help “flesh out” this topic for ST'ers. The right knee @ left) has lost the cartilage margin on the proximal side of the joint--- the black margin (the cartilage joint interface) disappears there. And on the left knee, the same thing is in process, soon to equal the right side.


Pilgrims, I have worn them out, especially the right one (shown on left) which has been bone-on-bone for probably a decade. So many years of skiing, surfing, road running, climbing and hiking have brought me to this point. I am going to have the right one replaced in a couple of months. The chronic pain and occasional lockups have generated a remarkable decline in my physical life, leading even to a changing attitude, weight gain and stunnning improvement of my computer skills.

Apparently there are two basic approaches in replacement, the most recently developed method being a “quadriceps-sparing” replacement where they don’t effing split the quadriceps tendon running over the knee cap (the conventional routine) and still get joint access they need anyway, resulting in far less pain, more rapid recovery. There is a great youtube on this approach from the University of Washington, up where Stevie Grossman lives!
http://www.uwtv.org/programs/displayevent.aspx?rID=29028

It is quite encouraging knowing that the operation is usually 1.5 to 2 hours long and that many people are able to sort of walk the same day. If Michael Kennedy has had two now and is climbing hard again, that is all I need to know to go forward. This should be easier than my surfer’s ear surgery and recovery. That sucker was 4.5 hours in the OR and two horrible weeks of having sh#t jammed in both ears while the skin in there readhered to the bone canal.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Mar 25, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
Peter, those xrays are a sore eyed sight. If you are left with replacement as the most viable option then do it before you experience further bone damage!
PM me if you want to discuss any of my personal experiences.
the goat

climber
north central WA
Aug 23, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
I'd like to hear any updates from those of you have gone under the knife. Peter, you could swap my x-rays for yours, both knees are bone-on-bone and what meniscus remains is tattered like rap runners on the Apron.

I'd like to x/c ski this year so what's the potential of doing any if surgery is done this Fall?
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Aug 23, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
I will have to have at least one replaced in the future but will wait until there is no other choice.
Can someone comment on the issues of how long the replacement lasts and why it (or the glue) wears out?
the goat

climber
north central WA
Aug 23, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
Jeff, did you have your knee done in Portland? Anybody have one done at the UofW as Peter mentioned?

I'm interested finding what's an average timeline for recovery and what degree (pun intended) of use I can expect to get back, i.e. full range of motion?
jogill

climber
Colorado
Aug 23, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
Im curious if anyone has had shoulder replacement and been able to return to climbing.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 23, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
The Jeff Thomas I know will just climb the gnarlies without knees.


HI JEFF!!! So good to see you on SuperT!!

Sorry I don't have anything useful to offer, since all my sh#t is still bomber.....HA!!! (Kidding)

I will never forget rescuing that guy on Red Wall together, even if you don't remember it.

Your fan forever,
Bruce Birchell
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Aug 24, 2011 - 01:04am PT
I just got my left one done a month ago and so far I'm not too happy. For one thing it is very unstable when it's getting close to being straight.

It also hurts more than before the surgery. I hope that will change but all the people that rave about how great their's went all say their pain level was down as soon as they woke up, so I'm not very optomistic right now.

I did it because I couldn't take the arthritis pain, so it getting worse is not an acceptable scene. I don't know what I'm gonna do, except go to bed.

goodnight
the goat

climber
north central WA
Aug 24, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
Bummer to hear that things aren't going well Nick. I've been told "give it time" and be serious about the rehab. The first time I got scoped I went to my kids x/c meet and stood like a moron for 2-1/2 hours then sat stationary in a car for another 3 hours for the drive home. I deserved what I got- extreme swelling that slowed recovery and stayed with me for months. I did it right the second time around on the other knee and recovery was almost instantaneous.

Most everyone tells me the pain should go away within the first week or two. I just want to sleep through the night without knee pain, then I'll think about NIAD.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 24, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
Can't add much except to wish you luck. And to reiterate the importance of getting an experienced physician who deals with athletes. Also, if possible, one who uses image guidance for the surgery. BN has witnessed numerous surgeries like this and has heard physician (without image guidance) state something to this effect as they eyeball getting the angle correct: "Oh, (s)he's 55, that's good enough".

Gack!

It's important that they know you are not old and sedentary regardless of your age in years. "Good enough" isn't good enough for you!

Best of luck.
Deb Colorado

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado
Mar 1, 2014 - 11:41am PT
I had my left knee replaced in Oct 2013 and now four months later, I've just started climbing at the gym to try out my new, shiny knee. So far, so good.

It's true that the first two months were hell...no sleep, lots of pain, hard rehab to get to my current 135-degree range of motion. But each day gets better and most people aren't happy with their new knees until at least six months post-surgery.

So I'm trying to be patient with the stiffness and weak quads, etc. I used a sports med surgeon in Boulder who does mostly athletes and is super experienced, then a PT person who really helped me push through the pain to get to 135...I was stuck at 100 for a long time so was getting pretty bummed out.

I was able to make some high steps at the gym but it is only the rocking over the new knee from a deep squat that is tough right now, but it'll happen soon.

Let me know if anyone has questions...I'm determined to get back to full speed in my climbing by the time outdoor climbing weather gets here!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta