Bolt Replacement 2010


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
Roger Brown

Oceano, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 11, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Clint and I replaced the bolts/hangers on the following routes this season. Special thanks to Chad (Salamanizer) for his help getting ropes fixed and Doug (Flanders) for the three gallons of water he and his friends dropped of at the Half Dome Camp.

El Cap

Duty Now for the Future
General Dynamics
Base Hits
Negative Pinnacle-Left Side
Rock Neurotic
The Promise
The Believer

Arches Area

Astro Spam
Rum Sodomy in the Lash
The Premature Ejaculation
Surplus Cheaper Hands
Sea Hag
Benzoin and Edges
Route just right of Benzoin and Edges
The Texas Chainsaw Massacre
King Snake (except protection bolt on the first pitch)
Moving like a Stud
Poker Face
Aces and Eights
Face Card
Sleight of Hand (six added bolts not replaced)
Dire Straights
Public Enema Number One

Middle Cathedral Rock

Rainbow Bridge
Paradise Lost (first six pitches)
Pieces of Eight (first four pitches)

Half Dome

Route just right of Autobahn (Autobahn first attempt-five pitches)
The Fast Lane
Snake Dance
Eye in the Sky

Trad climber
Sep 11, 2010 - 01:32pm PT guys did an incredible amount of work.

Thank you so much.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 11, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
Thanks, Roger! (And Clint, and everyone else who helped.) How many person-days, and how many bolts, were involved altogether?

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Sep 11, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Roger, Clint et al-----You ROCK!!! Seriously big props for your tireless efforts to make routes safe for future climbers! Photos are welcome of these grand adventures!


Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Sep 11, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
A sincere thank you for a job well done.
Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
Sep 11, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
Amazing as always! Do you update all of this on the ASCA site as well?

Would love to have am index with all the Roger / Clint et al trip reports. Always neat to read about what they find up there in the "Dusty and Rusty" world.

Hopefully they won't be as dusty after the hard work!


Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Sep 12, 2010 - 01:52am PT
Many thanks.
Greg Barnes

Sep 12, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
Matt - yes, we will update the ASCA website - just waiting on bolt numbers from Roger.

Unbelievable amount of work - even if those routes were all next to the road!

If I don't watch out, Roger will finish rebolting the Valley and we'll have to come up with more Tuolumne stuff that needs work...let's see - loads on Fairview, central Medlicott, a fair bit on Mountaineers, upper right of Stately Pleasure, fair bit on NW face of Lembert...

Trad climber
Sep 12, 2010 - 12:32pm PT

you must have teflon elbows.

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 12, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
Great job, guys! If only ONE accident is prevented, your work is priceless! Too bad you can't use a Bosch to assist you in your dusty work.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 12, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Thx Roger! You're an inspiration.

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 12, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
It's a National Park! Bosch roto-hammer drills are "frowned-upon" by the "authorities."

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Sep 12, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
Good work roger... thanks for all you guys do....

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Sep 12, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
I was at the Apron a few weeks back and noticed, fresh ASCA stamped bolt/hangers on:

Sone of Sam
Lonely Dancer
Mr. Natural
Synapse collapse

and a few others...

I just looked and they are not yet listed on the ASCA 'replaced' schedule.

You guys are amazing!!!

Do you ever take on helpers ?
I would gladly do some community service like that.

Again: Greg, Clint, Rodger and whom ever else involved...

Kudos !!!

Roger Brown

Oceano, California
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
A couple answers to some questions. As far as days/hours, it seamed like a bunch. We keep a daily log of what is done so it could be figured out. The first entry was on May 4 and that just detailed the first load hauled to the base of where we fixed those first ropes. That last entry was August 20 and says "hauled last load to the valley-went home" I came back a week later to remove my camp from one of the Volunteer sites, drop off some "Tat" at Jesse's office for Facelift, and return my borrowed NPS bear canister. The total amount of bolts we replaced was 340. We replaced a few more hangers than bolts. Sometimes because of "Tat" issues we replace good hangers with Double Ring Hangers. As far as hand drilling goes, I am not sure how to explain it. I doubt that it is any more fun than running a marathon. You could drive, but you choose to run. You still get there, you just did it the hard way. I'm sure some folks would call it the dumb way:-) I could get a lot more done power drilling, and I am sure we could get some kind of a permit, but the personal rewards would probably not be the same. Yea, it's just a personal thing. Life is all about choices and you try to make the right ones. I don't think I will ever regret my choice to hand drill. As far as the bolt count and locations on the topo's: It is amazing the accuracy of the Don Reid topos. Other than the bolted anchor on the top of the third pitch of The Fast Lane being a gear anchor, the topos are "right on". The routes posted here as replaced are "All Bolts Replaced" unless otherwise noted. We take hundreds of photos each season, mostly before and after stuff. There are some great photos of some really ugly stuff. Someday I will get the best of it together and post a link to it. I hope this answers some of the questions,
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 12, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
An index to posts on Roger's recent summers of bolt replacement (I and others were glad to be part of the projects!) 2010 (Apron 8/2008) (8/2007) (Arches Terrace, 7/2007)
[earlier summers, too - in Tuolumne, where Greg and friends fixed ropes for Roger]

P.S. Powerdrills are not allowed for replacement in the wilderness parts of Joshua Tree. And they will probably never be allowed for replacement in the wilderness parts of Yosemite (where all the climbs are; the only non-wilderness is the Valley floor).

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 12, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
Thanks to you guys!

I have never done a rebolt of that scale. However, I am very aware of the workload and am completely humbled by the effort year after year.

Best Regards,


Sep 12, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
Holy Sheep Dip!

Friggin Amazing.

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:27am PT
Awesome work! Thanks mucho for your ongoing mission to replace Valley mank!
Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta