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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Product:
Balega athletic sock
Evaluators:
me
Crusher
Overall rating:
4 out of 4 stars
Pros:
Durable
Comfortable
Fits wide range of sizes
Flexible--multiple applications
Cons:
Poor traction in some applications
Protocol:
Our testers bought a pair of these at Sports Basement about a year ago. After a year of conventional use, they were put to the real test. At the 9th belay on Crest Jewel Direct, one of our testers' [my] approach shoe worked its way off of a non-locking biner and plunged hundreds of feet to its likely death. Retrieving the shoe would have required descending the bushwack from hell a 2nd time (in the dark this time), finding the shoe (in the dark), and then either doing the climb again (in the dark) or reversing the bushwack from hell (also in the dark). So the shoe was left to die, a la Joe Simpson in Touching the Void.
The potential buyer should note that a Balega sock is not, in and of itself, adequate footwear. Our testers started with a doubled-over wool hat as an insole. The hat was secured to the foot with a bandana, and the package was then wrapped with climbing tape (3 feet worth, the testers' entire repair/first aid kit). Despite being a women's size small, the Balega sock fit over the bulky materials admirably, providing an important layer of protection, cushioning, and stability.
On the trail, the Balega caused mild to moderate supination, primarily due to an imprecisely placed insole/hat. However, it made it the entire 4.5 mile hike without developing any holes--amazing. For this level of durability, our testers gave the Balega sock 4 out of 4 stars. Testers' notes also complimented the sock on its attractive pink accents.
One of the testers, referencing renowned alpinist Steve House's dropped boot on the North Face of North Twin, remarked, "I'm Steve House, bitch!"
While not strictly relevant to the subject at hand, the testers would like to admit for the record that it took a few falls to get up the crux pitch. The testers cite the hot weather and consequently greasy rock as the likely culprit.
--test team
[edited--fixed House route reference; pics!]
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Bwahahahaha! And then there was that guy who climbed the north face of North Twin with only one boot, in the upper part. And someone else who dropped two ice tools on Robson...
So the shoe was left to die, a la Joe Simpson in Touching the Void. Did it fall in a crevasse? What knife was used to cut its cord?
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
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oops, thanks MH, I meant NF of north twin--i've edited it...
p.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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OK, but that still doesn't explain the pink bunnies. Pictures, please!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Strong work.
Now I'm anxiously awaiting the rip-off threads this will generate.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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now with pics, as requested!
--a satisfied customer
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Phile- fantastic and glad you made it back to the trail in one (sorta) piece.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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That's a good story, man.
Serious sock test, eh?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Darn it! Another funny thread. The hole thing had me in stitches.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2010 - 10:03am PT
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darn... hole... stitches... "i see what you did there."
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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Balega athletic sock: one is all you need.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 11, 2010 - 01:14am PT
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Here's the website for Balega. It has some interesting graphics and stuff.
http://www.balegasports.com/
Maybe they'd sponsor you, or give you some free socks or something?
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