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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 25, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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On a large roof above Tenaya Peak, a thin diagonaling crack splits the rock. A difficulot series of pinches, slopers, and finger locks has kept the route from seeing a free ascent, despite many attempts by some of the true studs of Yosemite Valley.
I'm curious as to how the route was put up. It was aided a number of times- the bolts were obviously put in off of aid and not stanced bolted. Was it worked on toprope? Was it dogged?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 25, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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pics?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 25, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
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hey there say..... though i am not a climber, i ask for "artistic" reasons only:
pictures, please do, :)
if possible... :)
thanks!
:)
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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Scott-
That's what I was told. Did you ever try it? I tried it a week or two ago. It's pretty hard. It goes, just not for me.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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Is there anywhere Blitzo hasn't been?
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:34am PT
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I think he's still waiting to be admitted to hell.
No...
wait.
He slaves for Russ. N/M.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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Looks cool in any case, any other 'location' photos? Anyone? bluter, Blooter?
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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The route now has a bolt around where Kurt's chest is. It's hard to see if it was there in the photo. I heard that they were using fixed pins and nailing it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 26, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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So no one has Cruised Top Gun yet?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 26, 2010 - 02:14am PT
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Looks cool in any case, any other 'location' photos?
It's a bit right of your favorite Tuolumne 5.11.
First bolt is an old 1/4" to add to the spice level...
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TLloyd-Davies
Trad climber
Santa Clara, ca
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Jul 26, 2010 - 02:23am PT
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Saw someone working this last weekend. Looked cool, and hard.
They said it felt 5.14ish.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2010 - 03:12am PT
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Thanks Greg, I think I got it, there was a black static line on top of it a month ago.
Looks very cool!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 26, 2010 - 08:51am PT
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Chris falkenstein put 2 bolts on it back in 85, then sent me up there to try it. I worked on it in 85, 86, 87 and 2002 and got really really close in 87. this was done ground up and in the 80's each try was done with out top rope (can't) and no hang dogging. it has a few nuts and couple cams and is 5.14. Bachar tried, i think Coz, maybe Kauk?
Chad shepard has been working on it this summer.
We never "nailed it" and i worked the sh#t out of that route old school style.
Had i hung on it in 87, i would have got it all worked out. Still one of the coolest projects in the meadows and i hope it gets sent soon..
Chris has some great photos of this route too..
Chris- post up..
kurt
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2010 - 10:34am PT
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Why didn't you hang dog Kurt? Lookin at the pictures, I'm sure you were close- the route is sort of a long boulder problem and you were close to its end. I'm assuming that when you went back in 2002 you did hang, you just weren't as strong/used to the Meadows.
What was the old school style? It seems a little blurry to me. An old school route like Blackout seems more like a pre-inspected flash than a stout ground-up "traditional" rock climb. Working a bolted route in the Meadows isn't quite Slice of Life but it's close. What changed your thinking?
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 26, 2010 - 10:47am PT
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walked by it yesterday. pro in the crack. chad was close last year.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 26, 2010 - 10:52am PT
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Kurt, knowing what you know about the ethics of today, do you wish you had just hung the sh*t out of it and gotten it done? Or are you proud of the fact that you didn't?
Example: BITD, (Before the "sport" revolution)I always knew that a million things at Smith Rocks would go if they had bolts. But to this day, I have never regretted that I didn't do it. If anyone thought a few pin scars were unsightly,they had no idea what was coming. Line after line of shiny bolt hangers, hundreds of pounds of chalk, fixed lines hanging everywhere on peoples projects......
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jul 26, 2015 - 06:51am PT
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Any updates in the last five years?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 26, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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It's fun to go back in time when James took this site seriously
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