Calaveras dome

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Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
I am heading out on a father son camping trip this weekend with some non-climbing friends. We will be staying near calaveras dome and they would love to try some climbing.
Are there any short, easy top ropes or any 1/2 to full pitch climbs that I can lead then top rope? any guide books?
thanks
-Rob
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 16, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
The easiest one pitch climb that I know of is a short 5.8 crack to the right of the start Of War of the Wall... but you have to lead it. Look up Will Cottrel he knows the area. Good luck, Dan
mikeyb

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 16, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
Cal Dome is a tough place for newbies. Like the other reply said, there's a mungy 5.8 crack about 100' right of War of the Worlds, that you can lead and then have people TR that and some harder routes on either side (use directionals). The first pitch of Wings & Stings on Hammer Dome is easy 5th class (like 5.1) and can be TR'ed with one 60m rope. It's kinda boring though. Honestly aside from those I can't think of too much else that isn't hard. There are 2 or 3 single pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.7 range that go up a slabby, licheny buttress (with some bolts) to the tree at the start of Gemini Cracks. I suppose you could lead one of those (or scramble around to the start of Gemini), rig an anchor off the tree and then TR those routes. They're fun, knobby slabs - though a bit dirty.

Edit - The first pitch of Smoke Screen (Hammer Dome) goes up a funky overlap / chimney, onto a slab and up to a 2 bolt rap anchor. It probably goes at 5.8-9 and you could lead then rig a TR on that. Then you could TR the bonus 10c pitch to the right - I forget the name, but it's a fun TR - scary as sh*t lead though.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jun 16, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
Is that "lost wall" or "hidden wall" or whatever it is called any good? Been meaning to head out there for some steeper stuff.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 16, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
Ginsu (on Hidden Wall) is pretty fun, and there are several other hard routes there.
The approach from above takes a little faith, but it's not very difficult.
Mainly, it has a short season due to the birds nesting January-July or so.
Trip report: http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/02ochidn.txt
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jun 16, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
thanks clint. you should go back and bolt that knobby face!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Jul 9, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Hidden Wall, Calaveras Dome, CA.
Hidden Wall, Calaveras Dome, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 10, 2013 - 01:57am PT

http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/calav.htm
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jul 10, 2013 - 06:06am PT
Here's an old thread with Will's contact info, he's moved over the hill to Tahoe. Not sure what the name of some slaby area with one pitch climbs is but they're good for setting up a top rope. It's on the south facing slope of the canyon so they're in the full sun which will be brutal in this heat. There's some great hiking up beyond the lake in the canyon just watch for snakes.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/844886/Woah-Calaveras-Dome-looks-sweet

Charlie D.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 10, 2013 - 07:10am PT
If you look around on the hammer dome side you can find some easy short top ropes.
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