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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
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I am heading out on a father son camping trip this weekend with some non-climbing friends. We will be staying near calaveras dome and they would love to try some climbing.
Are there any short, easy top ropes or any 1/2 to full pitch climbs that I can lead then top rope? any guide books?
thanks
-Rob
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mikeyb
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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Cal Dome is a tough place for newbies. Like the other reply said, there's a mungy 5.8 crack about 100' right of War of the Worlds, that you can lead and then have people TR that and some harder routes on either side (use directionals). The first pitch of Wings & Stings on Hammer Dome is easy 5th class (like 5.1) and can be TR'ed with one 60m rope. It's kinda boring though. Honestly aside from those I can't think of too much else that isn't hard. There are 2 or 3 single pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.7 range that go up a slabby, licheny buttress (with some bolts) to the tree at the start of Gemini Cracks. I suppose you could lead one of those (or scramble around to the start of Gemini), rig an anchor off the tree and then TR those routes. They're fun, knobby slabs - though a bit dirty.
Edit - The first pitch of Smoke Screen (Hammer Dome) goes up a funky overlap / chimney, onto a slab and up to a 2 bolt rap anchor. It probably goes at 5.8-9 and you could lead then rig a TR on that. Then you could TR the bonus 10c pitch to the right - I forget the name, but it's a fun TR - scary as sh*t lead though.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 16, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
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Ginsu (on Hidden Wall) is pretty fun, and there are several other hard routes there.
The approach from above takes a little faith, but it's not very difficult.
Mainly, it has a short season due to the birds nesting January-July or so.
Trip report: http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/02ochidn.txt
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jul 10, 2013 - 01:31am PT
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 10, 2013 - 09:06am PT
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Here's an old thread with Will's contact info, he's moved over the hill to Tahoe. Not sure what the name of some slaby area with one pitch climbs is but they're good for setting up a top rope. It's on the south facing slope of the canyon so they're in the full sun which will be brutal in this heat. There's some great hiking up beyond the lake in the canyon just watch for snakes.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/844886/Woah-Calaveras-Dome-looks-sweet
Charlie D.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jul 10, 2013 - 10:10am PT
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If you look around on the hammer dome side you can find some easy short top ropes.
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