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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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May 28, 2010 - 09:05am PT
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cool..
another proud cosgrove route...
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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May 28, 2010 - 09:11am PT
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Hey Kurt I thought Suzuki did the f.a. I know Watusie found it and was close to getting it.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 28, 2010 - 10:01am PT
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It hurt my fingers to just look at that thing.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 28, 2010 - 10:42am PT
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looks sweet!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 28, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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Most places a 13D repeat wouldn't be news, I guess at JT it's real climbing.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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May 28, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Sonnie T, the famous headpointer
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RtM
Boulder climber
DHS
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May 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
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A Cozgrove route? I thought it was a Mike Paul (tr)/Hidetaka Suzuki (lead)route??
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 28, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Yeah, looked to be a true old school JTREE route. Man, major skillzzzz
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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May 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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I always thought it was 5.13d. Thats what it was rated BITD.
I believe Paul Parker may have toproped the Stingray at some point but I don't think he ever lead the route.
I second Dr. F's comment that it looked painful. ;(
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Congrats to Sonnie!
I don't remember a foothold on this climb that made it 3 grades easier though... The crux section overhangs almost 45 degrees and there was no foothold thicker than maybe 3/16 of an inch. Not exactly a finesse route! I think Hidetaka originally rated it 13d and I never saw any reason to dispute that. It is quite a bit harder than Phoenix, Cosmic Debris, etc. and probably 4 grades harder than Equinox.
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ktmt
Sport climber
Montana
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If only the Watusi would weigh in...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah I got credit for the first TR and even was close to leading it but was a bit put off when I'd go out and see Suzuki hanging on all of my tcu's...Put a damper on the rest of my climbing career that someone had told him about it while I was still working on it...That was '88, glad to see it getting some attention after 22 years!:)
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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usless without photos!
we need photos!
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Hanging on your gear is bogus! Thats too bad someone jumped the gun on 'Watusi's' FA.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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My bad Watusi and zuki..
it does suck when someone snakes your project...
had that happen to me a few times..
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jun 11, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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Yeah it was the end for me and high end climbing...That someone would sell me short, saying that I'd never do it...I have been a bass player since I was nine so I had some thing to fall back on...Touring 20 countries for the DOD, opening for bands like Smithereens and Sheryl Crow, so it wasn't all bad I guess...
For my good friend who told him where to find my gear hanging...
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apogee
climber
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Jun 11, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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He probably used tick marks. Loser.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Jun 11, 2010 - 10:45am PT
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I've got to come to Hidetaka's defense here. You can't claim a crack as your project and effectively put a reg tag on it. I'm sure old schoolers are going to get all hot and bothered about my opinion on this, but there it is. Just because you find a climb, clean it and try to climb it first, doesn't mean anything. Climbers love to "make their mark" on rocks, but in reality, it's just a rock that's located on public property. No one individual owns it.
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