Trotter repeats Stingray in Josh (now 13d after holds broke)

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2010 - 07:12am PT
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53785
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
May 28, 2010 - 09:05am PT
cool..
another proud cosgrove route...
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
May 28, 2010 - 09:11am PT
Hey Kurt I thought Suzuki did the f.a. I know Watusie found it and was close to getting it.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 28, 2010 - 10:01am PT
It hurt my fingers to just look at that thing.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 28, 2010 - 10:42am PT
looks sweet!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 28, 2010 - 10:50am PT
Most places a 13D repeat wouldn't be news, I guess at JT it's real climbing.
dustonian

climber
RRG
May 28, 2010 - 11:07am PT
Sonnie T, the famous headpointer
RtM

Boulder climber
DHS
May 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
A Cozgrove route? I thought it was a Mike Paul (tr)/Hidetaka Suzuki (lead)route??
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 28, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
Yeah, looked to be a true old school JTREE route. Man, major skillzzzz
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
May 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
I always thought it was 5.13d. Thats what it was rated BITD.

I believe Paul Parker may have toproped the Stingray at some point but I don't think he ever lead the route.

I second Dr. F's comment that it looked painful. ;(
CrackAddict

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jun 7, 2010 - 06:58pm PT
Congrats to Sonnie!

I don't remember a foothold on this climb that made it 3 grades easier though... The crux section overhangs almost 45 degrees and there was no foothold thicker than maybe 3/16 of an inch. Not exactly a finesse route! I think Hidetaka originally rated it 13d and I never saw any reason to dispute that. It is quite a bit harder than Phoenix, Cosmic Debris, etc. and probably 4 grades harder than Equinox.
ktmt

Sport climber
Montana
Jun 7, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
If only the Watusi would weigh in...
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 9, 2010 - 12:31am PT
Yeah I got credit for the first TR and even was close to leading it but was a bit put off when I'd go out and see Suzuki hanging on all of my tcu's...Put a damper on the rest of my climbing career that someone had told him about it while I was still working on it...That was '88, glad to see it getting some attention after 22 years!:)
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jun 9, 2010 - 12:50am PT
usless without photos!

we need photos!
CrackAddict

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jun 9, 2010 - 02:45am PT
There are some good ones on Sonnie's blog:

http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/06/03/how-hard-is-5-14-let-pain-be-your-guide/#comments

Even one of Mike, although he is just belaying in it.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Jun 9, 2010 - 04:11am PT
Hanging on your gear is bogus! Thats too bad someone jumped the gun on 'Watusi's' FA.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 9, 2010 - 09:46am PT
My bad Watusi and zuki..
it does suck when someone snakes your project...
had that happen to me a few times..

Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 11, 2010 - 01:38am PT
Yeah it was the end for me and high end climbing...That someone would sell me short, saying that I'd never do it...I have been a bass player since I was nine so I had some thing to fall back on...Touring 20 countries for the DOD, opening for bands like Smithereens and Sheryl Crow, so it wasn't all bad I guess...




For my good friend who told him where to find my gear hanging...


apogee

climber
Jun 11, 2010 - 02:17am PT
He probably used tick marks. Loser.
Mike.

climber
Jun 11, 2010 - 09:51am PT
wes, you forgot the s in leads.
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