Trotter repeats Stingray in Josh (now 13d after holds broke)

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 49 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2010 - 04:12am PT
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53785
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
May 28, 2010 - 06:05am PT
cool..
another proud cosgrove route...
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
May 28, 2010 - 06:11am PT
Hey Kurt I thought Suzuki did the f.a. I know Watusie found it and was close to getting it.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 28, 2010 - 07:01am PT
It hurt my fingers to just look at that thing.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 28, 2010 - 07:42am PT
looks sweet!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 28, 2010 - 07:50am PT
Most places a 13D repeat wouldn't be news, I guess at JT it's real climbing.
dustonian

climber
RRG
May 28, 2010 - 08:07am PT
Sonnie T, the famous headpointer
RtM

Boulder climber
DHS
May 28, 2010 - 09:23am PT
A Cozgrove route? I thought it was a Mike Paul (tr)/Hidetaka Suzuki (lead)route??
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 28, 2010 - 10:04am PT
Yeah, looked to be a true old school JTREE route. Man, major skillzzzz
Dr. F.

climber
So Cal
May 28, 2010 - 10:35am PT
We looked at it for years before Suzuki did it

It just didn't look fun
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
May 28, 2010 - 10:50am PT
I always thought it was 5.13d. Thats what it was rated BITD.

I believe Paul Parker may have toproped the Stingray at some point but I don't think he ever lead the route.

I second Dr. F's comment that it looked painful. ;(
coz

Trad climber
California
May 28, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
Thanks Kurt,

But the FA goes to Mike Paul TR and Suzuki first lead.

Good Job, Sonnie, great climber and human!
CrackAddict

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jun 7, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
Congrats to Sonnie!

I don't remember a foothold on this climb that made it 3 grades easier though... The crux section overhangs almost 45 degrees and there was no foothold thicker than maybe 3/16 of an inch. Not exactly a finesse route! I think Hidetaka originally rated it 13d and I never saw any reason to dispute that. It is quite a bit harder than Phoenix, Cosmic Debris, etc. and probably 4 grades harder than Equinox.
ktmt

Sport climber
Montana
Jun 7, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
If only the Watusi would weigh in...
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 8, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
Yeah I got credit for the first TR and even was close to leading it but was a bit put off when I'd go out and see Suzuki hanging on all of my tcu's...Put a damper on the rest of my climbing career that someone had told him about it while I was still working on it...That was '88, glad to see it getting some attention after 22 years!:)
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jun 8, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
usless without photos!

we need photos!
CrackAddict

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jun 8, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
There are some good ones on Sonnie's blog:

http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/06/03/how-hard-is-5-14-let-pain-be-your-guide/#comments

Even one of Mike, although he is just belaying in it.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Jun 9, 2010 - 01:11am PT
Hanging on your gear is bogus! Thats too bad someone jumped the gun on 'Watusi's' FA.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 9, 2010 - 06:46am PT
My bad Watusi and zuki..
it does suck when someone snakes your project...
had that happen to me a few times..

Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 10, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Yeah it was the end for me and high end climbing...That someone would sell me short, saying that I'd never do it...I have been a bass player since I was nine so I had some thing to fall back on...Touring 20 countries for the DOD, opening for bands like Smithereens and Sheryl Crow, so it wasn't all bad I guess...




For my good friend who told him where to find my gear hanging...


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