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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 1, 2005 - 06:11pm PT
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What inventive methods can one use to protect wide climbing besides buying gear?
I've heard you can stack cams but haven't tried it. I belayed someone who whipped on a cam/wood block stack and that worked. What about those old school tubes? Did anyone ever whip on those things? What else were you using?
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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i've heard that you can stack a cam and a shoe to get that extra inch of protection
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Cams work
Bongs, with or without hammer, depending on placement, work,
Big bros work
Tube chocks™ work
Titons™ work
I-beams™* (once availible up to 24"), work
wood works
Bolts, as appropriate, work o-oh
Each has been used in situations too many to list, and caught many falls.
I have placed and fallen on stacks of; cams/wood, hexes/wood, multiple hexes, bongs/wood, maybe others. I have placed stacked cams to see if they work. -Tested this combo so far as the pullup level, still good, never done this on lead, I am a parent, after all.
Cams are easiest, most reliable, (by and large), and most costly.
All wide protection options are cumbersome. A lot of the time the run-out option is the most expedient. After all, if you're 'in' it, often no further pro is needed.
Chuck Pratt (etal) made a leap in OW technique with the runout/don't fall/selfbelay through technique-approach. Randy Leavit (etal) added stacking/Leavitation. Since then it's been evolutionary, not revolutionary.
-*CMI, Rombauer/Joy of Cooking Money
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2005 - 09:02pm PT
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Jaybro,
Perfect response, thanks.
Locker,
I meant tube chocks. I've seen them cut but they are usually one size and placed like nuts. It seemed like you would need an arsenal and really have to be resourceful to get the proper protection. I must admit to being rather lazy and subscribing more to the Pratt don't fall technigue.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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ron kauk on sky, 1977 (ripped off from the 1978 GPIW catalog.)
note tube chocks and slung bongs. i always found that slung bongs worked best...you could dink 'em in to some really subtle placements. uh, not that they'd hold a fall or anything.....
get out there n' get after it, bro.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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And why, exactly, is Ron laybacking an off width? "The technique of no technique." Is that the top, one move away from the last placement, or the underside of a roof?
By the way, I always thought that slung bongs were nice decoration on free climbs, unless they were a perfect chock placement.
James, sometimes tube chocks would fit in a special place and would work great. Usually, however, they were a little too long, too short, or the end angle to acute for the length. Also, fiddling around with pro and getting out of position or pumped was not a good mix with 'rely on technique for protection.'
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WBraun
climber
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Holy sh-it that's SKY on the first ascent top left side of Elephant Rock. Dale Bard and I tried it a few days earlier when Dale took a huge wipper upside down and knocked himself kind off silly. He came back with Kauk and Ron leads it for the first.
What you don't see in the picture is the corner overhangs like crazy, hence that is the reason Ron is lybacking.
A great test piece.
I wonder if that's my photo or Clevengers.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
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Too bad he is aiding it..... check the tape job.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I think that's Skye, with an E on the end. I followed the late, great Lynn 'Wheels' Wheeler on that one. No tape, maybe the last route we did in EB's. I was always going to go back and lead it.
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WBraun
climber
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No jaybro it's "sky". Jardine pointed it out to us originally.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Duh, oh well, wondered if there was a gaelic story, or something. I know I saw that E somewhere.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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5.11 sandbag.
and you guys think his placed those pieces from a layback position? c'mon. at that point in the route you stuff into the crack to get a coupl decent pieces, then hail-mary for the summit. standard practice waaaaaaay back in the muthafukkin' day.
p.s. -- werner, you took that pic. how's the alzheimer's these days?
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WBraun
climber
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He placed them on the lyback, I'm the witness among others.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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damn. that's burly. enduro++
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2005 - 11:39pm PT
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I never could quite figure out the whole tape glove thing. Way too complicated. What about big bros are they "light"?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
NOT FOR LOAN™ CC3
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Pretty light.. but not as light as a runout.
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WBraun
climber
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Big bros, they suck, they are a pain to place. I'd just as soon keep moving.....yikes strung out again.
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Ben Wah
Social climber
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James,
for the right price I will custom-make you some tubes of any length you want. Email me.
Ben
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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"I must admit to being rather lazy and subscribing more to the Pratt don't fall technigue.:
Oh yeah? How's that workin' out for ya?
Sorry, cheap shot...
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2005 - 11:09am PT
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Lambone,
It worked well for a little while but I found a flaw...
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