| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 26, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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Chris, it's a project that can Never be complete. You just have to decide when you have enough there that they can't easily get elsewhere, and print that, there will always be updates.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Feb 26, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
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A "Stop corrupting our youth, Commie!" bump to ease my guilt
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 26, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
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AWESOME!!!!!!
THANKS CHRIS. YOU'LL MAKE A HARDMAN OUTTA ME ONE OF THESE DAYS. . .
just sayin'
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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Well, this is one hell of a good effort, Chris.
I went through all the "chapters". Extraordinary detail and "cockpit" advice. The best-ever Big Wall book here and with the excellent videos, just incredible. Thanks!! You should be really enthused!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
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Hi Chris. I had a brief look at the table of contents, and the first part of the introduction. It looks fine to me - assuming that there are all the usual diagrams and pictures to illustrate things.
As the introduction sets the tone for the rest of the book, I'd suggest emphasizing the concept of building blocks. That is, you do big routes one pitch at a time, and you learn how to aid climb one skill (or so) at a time. It breaks it into pieces - which the table of contents indicates is what you've done anyway - which is a good learning tactic. Werner once told me he'd done 13 Grade Vs before he did his first grade VI, which sort of illustrates the point.
Another thing, of course, is emphasizing the importance of experience and thinking for yourself. Responsibility, in other words.
Please try to have it out by the summer, so I can train for an ascent of El Cap in the autumn with PTPP.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 26, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
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How about a chapter to help someone decide if they are really ready and able to climb a grade VI route? Will they be/create the cluster, be part of the cluster or be able to avoid the cluster? i.e. if you're freaked out at the idea of leading Texas Flake or Hollow Flake, then maybe you shouldn't really be considering those routes.
In this day and age, where there are clusterf*#ks up and down the popular routes, maybe there should be a discussion of truly being ready to climbing the route in considerate style and respecting everyone else who wants to climb the same route.
I would stress that all routes are not for all people.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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Mark,
True that... ready to climbing the route in considerate style and respecting everyone else who wants to climb the same route.
It's in my mind regularly. I don't want to be in anyone's way and I don't want anyone in my way.
Cmac, go ALL out. The rest has been done, unless you know that what you will put out will be better than the other printed materials out there.
All out!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 28, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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hey there, say, bump for chris...
:)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 11, 2010 - 09:38am PT
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I know it's rough -and really good- but um, nice bio, Ian. bump.
About the Author
Ian is a man of the mountains. His overwhelming desire to spend as much time in them as possible has been the reason for him to spen
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Mar 11, 2010 - 10:09am PT
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I bet it'll give Chongo's version a real run for its money!
Ha.
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 11, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
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Thanks Chris!
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adamiata
Ice climber
Candia, NH
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Mar 12, 2010 - 05:19am PT
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My 2 cents:
I got into aiding about a year ago with the goal of a grade IV at some point in the future. I'm up to aid soloing grade III up to C2 or so with reasonable efficiency. I've been scouring everything on big-wall how-to that I can get my hands on.
Chris, your draft material has been by far the most clear and useful, compared to the Mountaineers and Falcon books. Your project is easier to follow, really drives home the efficiency and speed aspect, and doesn't waste time things that are TOO basic. Seriously, with all due respect to the authors, the Mountaineers book wastes a whole chapter with pictures of dozens of different belay devices and helmets that would be more at home in a intro to climbing book.
Your videos on bounce testing, cleaning and ascending are far more understandable than any book illustrations I've seen. It's easy enough to just set up an ascending rig, but all the little details I can watch cut a lot of time off the learning curve.
You've got something good going here, with unique things to offer. Please don't let this project die.
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John Fine
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Chris, here's a suggested contribution on Bailing:
Collected anti-Bailing wisdom I've heard from folks (apologies if I got any attributions wrong):
* "If you have gotten your loads and yourself to the top of your fixed lines, then the climb is half done" (PTPP)
* "Almost all bails are mental rather than technical" (Tom Evans)
* "Don't get discouraged if you only did one pitch today - you might do five tomorrow" (Tom Evans)
* "The first day is the worst day. The second is the scariest. After that everything is better." (everyone I've ever talked to)
* "The moment you actually start to bail, you feel HORRIBLE" (Mark Hudon)
Great book, good luck,
-John
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Hey Chris-
I have been teaching a few different people to wall climb and something that always causes people problems and gets over looked by a lot of material is cleaning traverses and cleaning sharp angling sections of climbing.
Traverses, where you aren't just lowering out (Im thinking of the first pitch of Lost in America, for example), are just difficult, I think it can be the toughest type of cleaning. It gets over looked in a lot of books and material.
Also, something more common that a full on traverse, is climbing where there is a sharp angle to it and pieces have to be passed then cleaned. This is tough work, I know I do it without much thought, nor TOO much effort, when on the wall, but I can't seem to figure out how to explain it to others...
Suggestions? Thoughts? Videos?
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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