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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 20, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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A great article by Maysho from Rock & Ice 1988. Hard, STEEP stuff being done 21 years ago!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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hey there, say, ihateplastice... wow, what a neat thing to see, first off, here on suppertopo!
great stuff about peter.... :)
always happy to learn more about ol' peter!!
small note:
oh my, and sayyyyyy, hankster, i HAVE been emailing you, and got to reply... say, if you are still around... please email me... :O
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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Way cool! Thanks for posting that, Simon! I remember that article – really neat photos. Those photos ended up on my wall, along with hundreds of other climbing photos to look at and dream… What a cool looking route!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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Whoa, burly!
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 20, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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I mde the images a tad larger so hopefully they are easier to read. I guess I could improve the scan resolution but I am a lazy arse.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
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Wow, thanks so much for scanning that in, IHP! Nice of you to add the context for the inflammatory quote that you pulled out of there last week!
Its been a long time since I read that piece, took me right back, my cute little 4 year old son is now 27! We are all surprised that the route has not become more popular, though I guess none of the nailing routes on Half Dome really are. At the time we thought we had done the best aid climb on earth!
Thanks again!
Peter
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 20, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
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That is a great route! I think Troy Johnson and I did the second ascent a year after it went up. That part of Half Dome feels so exposed.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Steve and I were talking about this climb a couple of weeks ago. He said Bridwell pushed him to the hardest nailing he had ever done. In Steve's words Bridwell said, "Steve this is your chance for mediocrity or greatness."
Bosque chose the latter. I admire these deeds I can only dream of.
Bosque still has it in him!!!
Thanks for posting up and Peter all the best.
LJ
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Dec 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 20, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
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and he still looks younger now, than I did, back then....
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Dec 20, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
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So Peter, what's the source of the route name?
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chris v
climber
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Dec 20, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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Aaron Martin and I climbed that route too (May 2002). So good! Brado (Peter's son) was there supporting us the whole time. The Chill was a truly unforgettable experience. And I couldn't have asked for a better partner.
I think it was named after the movie. Great movie.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Dec 21, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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To some these issues are black and white, to us it was a matter of degrees of taste, skill, artistry. Some people with drills and chisels have really fukked things up. We never heard that feedback from early ascents of ZM, Big Chill, or Aurora. Problem is, what can be a few taps here and there on a first ascent, does seem to give license to subsequent parties to wield a heavier hand, so the FA's subtle touch becomes the chop job, or pegboard.
Peter
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Double D
climber
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Dec 21, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Great article Peter.
Thanks for scanning and posting as well.
Happy Solstace to all!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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For the record... I want to be VERY CLEAR that this thread and the other thread with an excerpt from the article were NOT started because I wanted to point a finger or criticize.
This is a fine article about a burly route on a steep-arse wall done way back when by a rock star team.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 21, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Yeah, I have dutifully deleted my post. It wasn't intended to illicit some sort of explanation.
Mucho respect.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 22, 2009 - 12:28am PT
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So Peter - not Bridwell - invented the Casual Rating System? And what of DFU?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 10, 2010 - 03:38am PT
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Bump for the right side!
Man, What a team.
Mucci
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 10, 2010 - 03:48am PT
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Krikers, I musta missed this one the first time around. Great article. Great route(I imagine).Great dude(Mayflower Power).Keep on keeping on.
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