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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 9, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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60's Bedayn Ovals
Lemme know if you have any that you'd like to sell, thanks.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I bootied one a few years ago from the talus below El Cap. I have no idea what became of it.
Are you making a special collection?
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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Yes, been putting together a great 60's rack for years now. Vintage pitons are easy to come by but carabiners are a little more difficult to find. Once in a while I post up to see if anyone has some for sale.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
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What are they worth?
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Dec 10, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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I have one. Make me an offer!
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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About $7-10 each depending on condition. How many would you like to sell?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 11, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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Root posted: About $7-10 each depending on condition. How many would you like to sell?
Pfttt: I take it you've been away from the internet for a while then.....A 1972 Chouinard catalog which when new was handed out for free like candy to pre-schoolers can easily go for $300. Most of the people who posted here had one or more. Yet most of them have never seen a Bedayan biner.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Dec 11, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
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Mike Layton and I found one of those on our Mox peak ascent - the last party up there was a 1968 hiking group out of Portland, that ascended the impressive 1000-foot, to-5.9 slab after an arduous approach, then bailed at the headwall. It is unavailable, sadly.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 12, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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A nice Bedayn is worth $20 or so in my book. I gave the last one I found to my climbing partner. I got a bunch on the ole mantle. Oddly I saw one out on feebay a few weeks ago.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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Been buying them for the past 10 years now. Sure people pay a lot of money for the vintage catalogs and gear by Chouinard, but I'm not posting to buy that.
Hell I rently bought (2) never been used Bedayn's for $15 total and that included (2) additional vintage SMC's carabiners..and was bidding against other collectors on the INTERNET.
I did see one go for $30 once though, but that was before the recession.
Let me know if you want to sell any. Thanks
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stephen hammer
Trad climber
Gallup
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Do not collect.
But, here are a couple of biners purchased via catalog out of Seattle WA. It is felt from REI in a grouping of 10 for fall 1969 it is figured $15, or $2/each. But one is stamped on body of one Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), on the other on the gate Bedayn California. A lot of times biners were mixed but use electrician tape at time with dual colors to tell who's were whos. Know the were purchase from REI, remnant of black, my tape colors were black and white still exists on Bedayn one. Biners are close to identical, so figure Bedayn must have made the carabiners for REI. If that helps anyone in collecting.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Actually, you can see two of the differences in your photo:
1. The Bedayn has the inside edge of the gate rounded at the hinge, while it is square on the REI.
2. The REI has a larger gap between the gate and body at the hinge, to create clearance for the square gate end.
The REI biners were made by SMC, I believe.
I have several biners of the same design as your REI, with the (SMC) logo.
SMC may have been part of REI, or originated from it; I'm not sure. [See Steve's post below - separate companies]
I checked my junk stash and found two Bedayns.
Would be happy to trade one for a Chouinard Model III, haha, I wish!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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First of all Pilgrims, Raffi's name was originally spelled, "Bedayan". There is actually a bench in Camp Four now dedicated to him. It is located at the southeast corner of the Columbia Boulder. He was a great guy, well liked and full of energy!
Here is an even rarer carabiner: a Ski Hut. Plus an earlier Chouinard. Not sure about the Chouinard vintage. I also have quite a few "Eiger" carabiners, not shown.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice Ski Hut carabiner, Peter! I wonder who produced those?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I will have to ask Al Steck; I don't think I have ever known. I think Joe Taylor III talks about it in his book though, Pilgrims of the Vertical. DR has my copy right now.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 10, 2010 - 03:32am PT
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The logo on the biner is spelled: BEDAYN .
The original spelling of Raffi's name was Bedayan.
In Steve Roper's "Camp 4" book:
The index entry on p.247:
"Bedayan (Bedayn), Raffi"
p.108:
"... Raffi Bedayn (he had changed the spelling of his last name by this time) ..." [1960]
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Oct 10, 2010 - 03:43am PT
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I have a few of them, I hated them but the narrow nose was useful for clipping manky old homemade bolt hangers with tight holes on the Chief. I found them on old rappells and at the base, somehow they migrated themselves into active duty on my rack.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 10, 2010 - 08:28am PT
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Thanks Clint, awesome as usual! Raffi was very well known in our community. And his nickname was, "Raffles". He was so loaded with energy he verged on the silly. One of his nonclimbing activities was developing old industrial buildings into studios and work/live units. He was a predecessor to David Wilson in this regard.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 10, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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It is worth mentioning that Bedayan carabiners have at least two distinct runs based on the gate stamps. The shorter stamp is older and does not contain "California," if I recall correctly.
Interesting that the Ski Hut crabs have a scroll pin at the pivot point instead of peened solid rod.
REI and SMC are separate business entities even though SMC produced carabiners without the SMC stamp.
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