competely serene anchor

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 95 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
gaillard

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
Hello everyone, I just thought up an anchor and would like some feedback if would be so kind :)

As far as I can tell it is completely redundant for all components (protection, cord, crabs). Also I think it adheres to SERENE without sacrificing dynamic equalization for no extension (of course adherence with SERENE only applies to protection failure, not cord failure etc). Even better than that, it uses minimal gear, or as minimal as it could with the above properties.

There is a slight bit of extension. It is equal to half the distance between the failing protection and the protection attached to the failing protection with the extension limiter strand. But this is half or less (depending on how close the protection is) of what other designs yield.

It is fast to setup because the knots that are not clove hitches can be tied before a climb, and it takes minimal cord. Basically to setup it requires 3 clove hitch adjustments, not long.

The clove hitches are there only to adjust length if you have no runners. Once can forgo the clove hitches to adjust and just extend which ever of the three ends you need to to be faster, since it all equalizes out.

The two and three protection versions are below (3 protection version only needs an additional 2 crabs and 1 small sling) as well as a very bad wrong version. Can anybody spot the deficiency in the wrong version? :D

adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
First Taco post? Really? No really?
gaillard

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
What's a taco post?
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Looks like macrame to me.








Not to disparage thinking about these things, but how long will that take?
Chinchen

climber
Anacortes, wa
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
Crabs?

jstan

climber
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
That's right. Crabs. Helps to have a wide group of friends.

Gaillard:
This subject has had more debate on ST than even the subject of motherhood. As you might suppose---that's a lot.

A search on "equalized" should get you way more than you need - or want. Holler if that does not work and one of us will do some work, for a couple of minutes, and pull some links for you.

See what I mean? Here comes some more motherhood. Oiy veh.
jewedlaw

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
Ricardo Cabeza

Trad climber
Warner, NH
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
OK, I see a lizard, and two mtn goats.
Chinchen

climber
Anacortes, wa
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
All hail the flying spaghetti monster.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
Serene Crab


ps, so is that diagramme up there what is termed a Cluster-f*#k-o-lette? (stole that term from Dingus)
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
What's wrong with a good spotter?

adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
I'd rather tie one on with this anchor...

Chinchen

climber
Anacortes, wa
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
It takes at least three of those to be redundant.
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
If you're not sure just plug another one in!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
What a cluster fukk.

Build anchor with rope, one locker (3 if ya got bolts), boom done.

[total elapsed time, 15sec.]
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
Why is it that the only time I've ever run anchors (lack of anchors) so sketch that dynamic equalization was desirable they never lined up in neat rows like that?

Does that only happen to me?

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
My head just exploded trying to comprehend that diagram.
Chinchen

climber
Anacortes, wa
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
At least hes working on paper first eh?
Im feeling kinda itchy too.Ick.
WBraun

climber
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
Even better than that, it uses minimal gear, or as minimal as it could with the above properties.

Are you sure?

Looks like a nightmare ....
gaillard

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
Couple edits about speed
Messages 1 - 20 of total 95 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta