competely serene anchor

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gaillard

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:41pm PT

Hello everyone, I just thought up an anchor and would like some feedback if would be so kind :)

As far as I can tell it is completely redundant for all components (protection, cord, crabs). Also I think it adheres to SERENE without sacrificing dynamic equalization for no extension (of course adherence with SERENE only applies to protection failure, not cord failure etc). Even better than that, it uses minimal gear, or as minimal as it could with the above properties.

There is a slight bit of extension. It is equal to half the distance between the failing protection and the protection attached to the failing protection with the extension limiter strand. But this is half or less (depending on how close the protection is) of what other designs yield.

It is fast to setup because the knots that are not clove hitches can be tied before a climb, and it takes minimal cord. Basically to setup it requires 3 clove hitch adjustments, not long.

The clove hitches are there only to adjust length if you have no runners. Once can forgo the clove hitches to adjust and just extend which ever of the three ends you need to to be faster, since it all equalizes out.

The two and three protection versions are below (3 protection version only needs an additional 2 crabs and 1 small sling) as well as a very bad wrong version. Can anybody spot the deficiency in the wrong version? :D

adam d

climber

closer to waves than rock

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT

First Taco post? Really? No really?

gaillard

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT

What's a taco post?

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:46pm PT

Looks like macrame to me.

Not to disparage thinking about these things, but how long will that take?

Chinchen

climber

Anacortes, wa

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:47pm PT

Crabs?

jstan

climber

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:49pm PT

That's right. Crabs. Helps to have a wide group of friends.

Gaillard:
This subject has had more debate on ST than even the subject of motherhood. As you might suppose---that's a lot.

A search on "equalized" should get you way more than you need - or want. Holler if that does not work and one of us will do some work, for a couple of minutes, and pull some links for you.

See what I mean? Here comes some more motherhood. Oiy veh.

jewedlaw

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:50pm PT

Ricardo Cabeza

Trad climber

Warner, NH

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:51pm PT

OK, I see a lizard, and two mtn goats.

Chinchen

climber

Anacortes, wa

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:53pm PT

All hail the flying spaghetti monster.

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT

Serene Crab

ps, so is that diagramme up there what is termed a Cluster-f*#k-o-lette? (stole that term from Dingus)

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Nov 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT

What's wrong with a good spotter?

adam d

climber

closer to waves than rock

Nov 28, 2009 - 10:01pm PT

I'd rather tie one on with this anchor...

Chinchen

climber

Anacortes, wa

Nov 28, 2009 - 10:02pm PT

It takes at least three of those to be redundant.

adam d

climber

closer to waves than rock

Nov 28, 2009 - 10:02pm PT

If you're not sure just plug another one in!

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Nov 28, 2009 - 10:07pm PT

What a cluster fukk.

Build anchor with rope, one locker (3 if ya got bolts), boom done.

[total elapsed time, 15sec.]

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Nov 28, 2009 - 10:11pm PT

Why is it that the only time I've ever run anchors (lack of anchors) so sketch that dynamic equalization was desirable they never lined up in neat rows like that?

Does that only happen to me?