Gear Recommendation Needed... BEST WALL PULLEY

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Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 9, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
Time to replace the very old and worn pulley. I figured why not go to the source and get recommendations.

Everything is on the table at this point... standard pulley or finger-ripping gadgets. Not planning on huge loads but I have a solo project planned and the less effort/trouble spent hauling the better.

Okay lads and lasses... speak up! What works for you? And, equally important... what sucks?

And Werner... before you jump on my ass... yea, I know... go to Ace Hardware and find some barn-raising tools and make it work. I would, but I am feeling lazy tonight.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 9, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
The Old Man Wall Hauling Set Up.

John and I used this on the Shield, it was SWEET!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
The Wallhauler pulley with an integral cam is great as long as you aren't bringing the ground up with you. Quick and reasonably foolproof as long as you keep an eye on the pin tether. Always back the pulley up with a locking draw, just cuz...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 9, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
I like the Wallhauler best, too.

Here are some options from an email I sent about a month ago on this same question.
-------

> ... you mentioned that there are issues with the Pro-Traxion.
Yes. It will sometimes fail to close completely/reliably.
If you want, you can read about the Zion fatality involving the
Pro-Traxion here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=701629&tn=120

> One option is just getting a large pulley and using it in combination
> with the ascenders/progress-capture pulleys we already own. Another
> option is getting a different, large hauler (Kong makes one I think?).
> I don't know much about it, other than the fact that trying to haul
> heavy loads on a Mini-traxion is unpleasant. What do you think is a
> good solution?

Definitely a mini-traxion is too small diameter to use on a standard
haulbag for El Cap. [Too small for a 1:1 haul; OK as a ratchet for 3:1 haul as in Mark's photo above, though.]

I prefer to use the Rock Exotica Wall Hauler, which is a 2" diameter
pulley with aluminum wheel and bronze bushing, and sets up quickly:
http://www.rockexotica.com/pr_py_pl_whl.html
http://www.mtntools.com/cat/bigwall/pulley/rockexoticawallhaulerpulley.htm
I am not sure if it is still in production, but it might be possible to
find it on ebay, which is where I bought mine.
[Two friends] borrowed it for Zodiac, and liked it
a lot, although I don't think they have used other pulleys for comparison.

There is a large selection of pulleys and prices at:
http://www.spadout.com/c/pulleys/

There is also a nice one page comparison of several at:
http://mtntools.com/cat/bigwall/pulley/02pulley.htm

I also have a 2.375" diameter CMI pulley (RP 103) with steel side plates,
which I have used for hauling extra-heavy loads (two haulbags), with
inverted ascender. Something like this (at least 2" diameter aluminum
sheave with good bearing) would be good, and not too expensive. Perhaps
in addition to a hauling pulley with built-in cam. CMI makes several
models, indexed on the spadout page above.
Also very nice but not indexed on spadout are the SMC/RA pulleys, based on
the classic Russ Anderson designs. Here's a very good 2" aluminum 6.3
oz. model for $52.70:
http://www.smcgear.net/smc-products?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=536&category_id=164
main SMC/RA pulley page:
http://www.smcgear.net/smc-products?page=shop.browse&category_id=164

If you can't find a Rock Exotica Wall Hauler, the next best with built-in
cam/holder might be the Pro-Traxion, but it only has a 1.5" diameter
sheave, so it is not so good for lighter climbers or heavier bags. The
Kong Block Roll is a heavier piece of gear [550g or 740g]. Suitable mostly for huge
loads (multiple haulbags); not really right for [less experienced] folks doing a standard El Cap route or similar.
Kong pulley index page:
http://www.kong.it/pr_pull_new.htm

[Edit to add:]
Yates Gear pulley page - includes some interesting designs mentioned by others lower in this thread, and some models with larger sheaves or the capability to pass knots:
http://www.yatesgear.com/rescue/hardware/pulleys/index.htm
fosburg

climber
Nov 9, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
Another vote for the Wallhauler. I've used a Protraxion and didn't like it as well. There's really nothing wrong with a regular pulley/jug setup though either in my opinion.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
Thanks Clint... plenty to review there!

fosburg... The "regular pulley/jug setup" has been my way to go for eons. Works... simple... no extra gear with a singular purpose... So what is the best PULLEY then? The SMC jobs?

John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
Please correct me if I'm reading the report on the Zion accident incorrectly, but didn't the protrax fail due it not being closed fully?

Kong Roll Block or whatever it is called seems to be a favorite of many people. I've never used it since it seems to be quite heavy. For heavy loads I've always used a 3 inch pulley and a jug.

Backing up any hauling system with a sling, quickdraw etc is a good idea too.

mdavid

Big Wall climber
CA, CO, TX
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
Kong Block Roll
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
Ya know, you guys are right, I have another jug and getting a bigger pulley would make hauling even easier. I'm all for easier.

I think I'll get a medium size SMC pulley, http://tinyurl.com/yzml8rj
to make my 2:1 even easier and also to make the 1:1 hauling I might do near the top of the route easy also.

I have a few of these SMC pulleys for my slackline set up and I know they are well built and will probably last a lifetime.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
John Mac,

> Please correct me if I'm reading the report on the Zion accident incorrectly, but didn't the protrax fail due it not being closed fully?

Yes, you are correct (that is believed to be the cause of failure).

So using the ProTraxion when not fully closed could certainly be called a "user error".

The text from my email above was for a pulley which would be lent out to students in the Stanford Alpine Club, so they might well make such a "user error". Experienced folks like Simon should also be informed of this failure mode for the device. Once they are aware, they should be able to avoid this problem if the ProTraxion is their top choice.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
The Russ Anderson is the gold standard for reliability and performance. I stopped using mine on any repeat ascents once the Wallhauler showed up. FA loads might be a bit much for such a light body and design.

Edit: An spare ascender is not a bad idea anyway if you like the standard pulley set up.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
Onrope1 seems to always have a good selection of pulleys.

http://www.onrope1.com/store/index.php?p=catalog&mode=catalog&parent=13&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=&pg=2
WBraun

climber
Nov 9, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
Ihateplastic

The Wallhauler is pretty weak and it's clumsy & inefficient. Me and Shipley tore one apart once hauling.

John Middendof made a prototype wall hauler with integral cam that I used for 20 years, ..... strong, efficient, & tough in a compact design.

It was a one off design, maybe a couple more.

Too bad it never made it into production.

I like the looks of the "Kong Block Roll"

That flimsy ass sh'it can easily shut you down. The bigger pulleys are more efficient but at the cost of extra weight.

Get what you need and feel what's comfortable for your needs.

Or get a big gorilla to belay you and it will haul your sh'it hand over hand for bananas.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 10, 2009 - 01:02am PT
another vote for Kong Block Roll, although it's so big you will wanna use a zip line and tag it up.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 10, 2009 - 10:41am PT
36kN strength, 3" sheave bearing, built-in swivel on a bushing.


From this place http://www.patrollersupply.com/equipment/item_2509.asp

I did an A/B with a protraxion vs. a 3.5" pulley+mintrax (mini used as the holding ratchet)and the difference was night and day.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 10, 2009 - 11:31am PT
You could get a sheave 15" in diameter and if you're using a 1:1 system, you still have to pull down with the same amount of weight as what you're pulling up (not including the added drag on the rock). It's 1 to 1, get it? You're increasing efficiency with a large pulley but 1 to 1 is 1 to 1 no matter how big your pulley is.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
1:1 is the maximum in an idealized state for that setup...basically frictionless. Actual operating advantage in a "1:1" setup is going to be slightly to a lot less than actual 1:1. A big ass sheave is going to get you alot closer to an idealized state than a 1" sheave.

The difference in effort required is very noticeable. Try it yourself.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
Elcapinyoazz... That thing looks about right! Meaty enough to take a beating and big enough without being a burden to lug around.

As for the 1:1 fight, all the hauling I do is in the vacuum of space (it IS the Final Frontier) so friction and air resistance are negligible.

Anyone else care to weigh in?

Werner, I have a message in to Deuce to see whatever became of his plans for the device you speak of.
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
where's chongo?
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 10, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
Over on the Yates site there is a pretty interesting Pulley. Anyone ever seen it?


I wonder where Pete is? I would have thought he would have been all over this thread!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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