Spent two days (October 28-29 2006) camping at "The Secrets"; Spent time specifically at the Snags, the Sticks, and the Mystics.
Great directions for how to find "The Secrets" in the guidebook. The only problem seemed to be the GPS coordinates which were off in a few places. I noticed that you revised those below however.
The maps are very accurate and the descriptions for the routes are as well. It's tricky for the first five minutes to find which boulders are which in the guidebooks, but onced matched up, it's all good from there. I was very impressed.
I am a beginner climber/boulderer so this was pretty intense and awesome for me.
I camped out on the trail inbetween the Snags parking lot and the Snags bouldering set. I spent the first day at the Snags. I was able to do the V0 to about V2 rated routes and at least was able to get pumped on all the other harder routes. I took my brush kit up there and spent quite a lot of time cleaning the routes for future use.
The second day, I checked out The Sticks and The Mystics. Very awesome indeed.
The only thing I didn't like was the fact that nobody was there. I was hoping there'd be lots of people there hanging out on their crash pads. I was hoping to get some insight and learn from more experienced guys but noticed I was the only one the entire weekend.
Other than that it was pretty awesome. I highly recommend it.
Note however that the Lover's Leap campground is closed for the season so be prepared to camp out in the woods around the bouldering problems (better anyways).
I'll be doing lots of bouldering and climbing all around...pretty much all the places listed in the Bouldering Lake Tahoe and South Lake Tahoe Climbing guidebooks. I'm always looking for partners and people to learn from. I have all the gear to boulder, top-rope, lead sport, etc. The only thing I lack is trad gear. Send me an email if interested at email@example.com
There is a small overhanging boulder in this area with a horizontal crack running through most of the face. There appeared to be two established problems, not sure about names grades: One on the right side (start on jugs in crack, reach LH to crimp then up to slopers at the lip), the second traversed left to the last good jugs in the crack then went up.
Today my friend Ryan and I cleaned and climbed a third variation that continues left into a good gaston with the LH followed by a cross to a nice crimp with the RH and then a large dyno to a shelf at the lip. We both thought it was the most entertaining way of climbing the boulder and would grade it about V4. He suggested the name “Cruise, Crimp, Huck.”
I had a really difficult time interpreting the topo for this area. The drawings of the boulders are really unrepresentative of the actual layout, and many descriptions of problems made me even more confused. For example, the two established problems mentioned above may be “Mantle Man” 1 and 2, but the descriptions don’t match the rock.
This has gotten out of hand so I’m calling it quits.