"This is one of the most extensive bouldering areas in Tahoe"
No it's not. In the highway 50 corridor alone, loon lake has a LOT more rock. And of a higher quality: glacier eroded erratics.
Anyway: there's a hard open project at secrets that I cleaned and someone might be interested in sending: in supertopo guide, overview map on p29, on the upper road into the camping area, where you keep left (labelled "second turn" on map) after the sticks parkng area... the top of the boulder is visible on the south side of the road just before this intersection.
Hike down (10 seconds!) and find a tall, overhanging arete with an obvious sit start. Big poweful moves are clearly in order. Not been sent, but it is ready to go.
Just thought Id throw that out there, the secrets seem to have a real lack of tall hard problems for the more serious boulderers, and this is one for sure.
Finding the Sticks is easy. Just go straight downhill from the parking area on the upper road. Getting from the Sticks to the Mystics is a bit trickier. Once you've come to the last few boulders of the Sticks move almost straight South/East(traversing the fall line) intead of continuing South/West(farther downhill).
finding the sticks was pretty easy. just head south from the parking area and a little west. i agree that the trail was pretty hard to find. i picked it up than would lose it again often.
the trouble i had with the mystics (assuning i was there) was actually matching up the topo to the boulders. especailly since i didn't find the trail at that point, unless i found new stuff or had wandered into a different area
i just made the trail much mor obvious to find the sticks. should be no problem now.
from the sticks to the mystics, i should have emphasized that you have to walk up the hill toward the ridge a bit. even if you dont find the trail, just walk to the top of the ridge then down the ridge and you will run right into the area.
right now its a little disorienting because a lot of the problems dont have much chalk (if any) and many of the trails are hard to find.
i'll probably be at The Sticks saturday (september 9) from 8am-noon if anyone wants a tour.
the Mystics are not to hard to find as of 9/13, just a bit out of the Sticks veer left and you'll run right into the Warrior. This whole area has some fun bouldering and clearly potential for more. I think the descriptions of some of the problems are a bit missleading/confusing and would gladly offer some feedback if that is desired. Also, I did project #42 on the "G" boulder in the Mystics, felt it was around V7, you could call it the "G-Ride" to justify naming the boulder "G". Any questions, e-mail me.
Went back for more today, 9/24. I recomend the two problems on the "Car Park" boulder ("Stunt man" and "Parking Challenge") were really nice and will improve with traffic. This place is pretty cool although the abundance of hunters in the area are a little unsettling (wear bright colors). Be careful though, I've broken several big knobs on established climbs,which resulted in a couple of nasty falls.
i got the gps coordinates for the snags parking wrong. correct gps coords are:
38 45.635, 120 11.608
also, coords for Mystics boulders 38 45.263, 120 12.049.
thanks russ for sending me corrections. also, thanks for the conditions updates. as off memorial day weekend, you can drive within a few miles of the boulders. so i imagine that by the second weekend in june you can probably drive all the way
Spent two days (October 28-29 2006) camping at "The Secrets"; Spent time specifically at the Snags, the Sticks, and the Mystics.
Great directions for how to find "The Secrets" in the guidebook. The only problem seemed to be the GPS coordinates which were off in a few places. I noticed that you revised those below however.
I am a beginner climber/boulderer so this was pretty intense and awesome for me.
I camped out on the trail inbetween the Snags parking lot and the Snags bouldering set. I spent the first day at the Snags. I was able to do the V0 to about V2 rated routes and at least was able to get pumped on all the other harder routes. I took my brush kit up there and spent quite a lot of time cleaning the routes for future use.
The second day, I checked out The Sticks and The Mystics. Very awesome indeed.
The only thing I didn't like was the fact that nobody was there. I was hoping there'd be lots of people there hanging out on their crash pads. I was hoping to get some insight and learn from more experienced guys but noticed I was the only one the entire weekend.
Other than that it was pretty awesome. I highly recommend it.
Note however that the Lover's Leap campground is closed for the season so be prepared to camp out in the woods around the bouldering problems (better anyways).
I'll be doing lots of bouldering and climbing all around...pretty much all the places listed in the Bouldering Lake Tahoe and South Lake Tahoe Climbing guidebooks. I'm always looking for partners and people to learn from. I have all the gear to boulder, top-rope, lead sport, etc. The only thing I lack is trad gear. Send me an email if interested at email@example.com