Castle Rock

 
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Bay Area Bouldering, California, USA


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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 4
  • 5
 (4.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
big man

Boulder climber
Novato, CA
Jan 18, 2011 - 09:22pm
 
The right hand-hold to asian invasion has been broken. The new crimper is lower to the ground and turned slightly in a different direction. The problem might be a grade or two harder.
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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
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   Jan 23, 2008 - 04:14pm
An old project becomes a new problem! Charlie Barrett just did the cave arete to the left of "Groundation" - it was nicknamed "buckethead" but Charlie called it "Blind Sided" because of a flying dyno to a blind mini bucket! richie and i wouldnt even try the dyno - its a sorta scary weird V6 maybe.
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salad

Big Wall climber
Jan 24, 2008 - 06:35pm
 
yabo roof v5??? lost keys traverse v6???
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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   Jan 26, 2008 - 02:32am
wow, no sh#t. even the other books don't call that roof V5. hrm
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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
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   Jul 25, 2008 - 06:09pm
you know what - i frkn agree - i flashed lost keys and burn laps on it and yabo is still hard sometimes.

they should be switched - i'll check 8a.spew.

good call.
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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   Sep 8, 2009 - 02:57am
Domino #56 is rated V2 in the book. Definitely disagree on that. I can do it in tennies and I'm old and fat. Salad will probably say 5.8, and I would agree, but I probably wouldn't balk at calling it 5.9/V0-

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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
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   Sep 8, 2009 - 01:27pm
thanks for the feedback - i will have to go back and do it again to see what i think. its been many years and i often cant tell a v0 from a v2.
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maestro8

Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
Sep 8, 2009 - 02:52pm
 
I was bouldering around the Magoos yesterday and saw FVCKING HUGE TICK MARKS on nearly every boulder in 100 yd radius. Some holds had 2-3 tick marks several inches long, even. WTF is going on here?
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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
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   Jan 18, 2011 - 10:53pm
you mean the low right starting edge?? it did seem like a plate/flake. i think thats the one i heel hooked - it will be harder for two moves for me now if thats the case. thanks for the info.
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big man

Boulder climber
Novato, CA
Jan 19, 2011 - 08:58pm
 
Yes. To clarify: The lowest right handhold of Asian Invasian is broken. I saw it placed at the base of the problem
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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   Feb 27, 2011 - 02:04am
more feedback Chris:

Mr. Magoo is not not V1 from the stand start. V0 IMHO, but wouldn't balk at V0+ for those with a short reach that have to use the right side of the edge.


Dog Dish Traverse always seemed hella hard. Bump that one up? Maybe the feet have gotten better, but that one side pull broke in the mid nineties making it pretty stout to move left after the bowl.
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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
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   Feb 27, 2011 - 02:36am
i sort of agree - mr magoo could be a solid V0 or more like v0+ with a V1 sit although i could also give it v1 stand with a v2 sit easily?? hard to tell since it is a bit reachy and kind of hard and tricky.

dog dish for sure yeh i think at least V3 or V4 or even V5 maybe?? i cant remember its been awhile for that one. i can usually do V4's and V5's at crsp pretty easy so i cant tell ratings very good for anything under v3 ish. but v2 for dog dish seems sandbagged.

thanks for the feedback munge!
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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
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   Mar 1, 2011 - 12:33am
Charlie Barret does Eco Terrorist (V10) -BAREFOOT!!
Charlie Barret does Eco Terrorist (V10) -BAREFOOT!!
Credit: Chris Summit

Sandstoned!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lGU1A2VC4M
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yama

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 19, 2009 - 01:54pm
 
Anyone leave one Mad Rock Phoenix climbing shoe at the top of Goat Rock?
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 -   - Bay Area Bouldering, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Charlie Barrett on Egg Head ArÍte (V8).
Photo: Chris Summit
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