The Best Big Wall Hauling Devices


Hauling Device Review | Best-in-Class

Search
Go
Overview
There is no part of big wall climbing reviled as much as hauling. To ease the pain we looked at the four top hauling devices and put them up against some monster El Cap loads. We evaluated each device on its ease of hauling, ease of setup, durability, ease of use, and portability. We found that all worked but that they each excelled at different parts of the test. In the end there was no escaping a simple fact: the best way to haul loads is to just bring less stuff in the first place. Also, the best hauling device in the world won't help if you are using the wrong hauling technique.


SuperTopo Editors' Hands-on Review

Ability to haul loads
The bigger the pulley, the easier the hauling. There is no way around that. It is no surprise that the Petzl Pro Traxion and Waul Hauler (each with 2" pulleys) are much better for hauling big loads than the Mini Traxion (1" pulley). Both the Pro Traxion and the Waul Hauler excel at loads in the 75 lb. to 150 lb. range and we feel that each does about an equal job. While the Wall Hauler is only rated to 190 lb. vs. the Pro Traxion's 560 lb, if we were hauling more than 190 lb. (which you will never catch us doing), we wouldn't use either device. Instead, we would want a big pulley (2" or bigger sheath) like the CMI RP 101 setup with the old school pulley and ascender method. For under 75 lb, the Mini Traxion works great. For any load bigger, it still works, it's just a little harder to haul. For climbing The Nose in two days, bring the Mini Traxion. On the first day, when the bag is heavy, you might wish you had a bigger pulley. But for the last two days, it's nice to have such a lightweight and compact device for free climbing.

Ease of setup
All the devices are easy to set up, especially compared to the time and effort of setting up the old school "pulley and ascender method." The Waul Hauler is the most intuitive to set up but the Pro Traxion is overall the easiest because it is always clipped to the anchor. With the Mini Traxion and Waul Hauler, if the haul line weighs a lot (which it usually does) it can be a little hard (and scary) to get the device set up. So we usually tie the haul line to the anchor temporarily (to get the weight off the part of the haul line we want to put in the hauling device). Then clip the Mini Traxion or Waul Hauler to the anchor and then undo the temporary bit of rope that was clipped to the anchor. If you didn't follow those last two sentences, don't worry. The point is that the Pro Traxion avoids all those steps because you can set it up while clipped to your hauling point. You never worry about dropping the device while trying to feed a heavy haul rope through it.

But to be honest, the whole paragraph above does not matter much if you have your hauling device "pre-loaded" which is what is recommended in our How to Big Wall Climb posts.

Ease of use
All the devices are fairly easy to use. One nice feature with the Petzl devices is that you can pull the cam back and out of the way easily with one hand. With the Waul Hauler it requires more effort. You have to pull the back the cam, hold it with your finger and then put a pin in. This is annoying when you are trying to get the bag off the Waul Hauler and onto the anchor.

Portability
The Mini Traxion is by far the most portable. Its light and compact package is greatly appreciated on mostly-free big walls such as The Nose or Half Dome where you don't want tons of heavy stuff on the back of your harness when busting free moves. In second place is the Waul Hauler, which is about an ounce lighter than the ProTraxion but is about the same amount of bulk. Overall, they are all very portable when compared the old "pulley and ascender method."

Durability
Both the Petzl devices use the same cam that Chris says he has never been able to wear out. The Waul Hauler cam will wear out over time and cause the bag to slip. Chris noticed that after about 15 walls this starts to happen. When he called Rock Exotica about it, they said very few devices ever get returned for this reason. So it could be that most people never climb enough wall for it to be an issue. Also, Rock Exotica gave Chris a quote of $15 to replace the piece. That gives some peace of mind if you think it will be an issue for you.

The Bottom Line
If you are going to climb a ton of walls, have some cash, and want to haul big loads, get the Pro Traxion. If you are going to so some short walls and want a device that also doubles as a toprope self-belay device, get the Mini Traxion. If you have a budget and want an all around good hauling device, get the Waul Hauler. If you need to haul absolutely monster loads (200-plus pounds) then get a 3" or bigger pulley and use the old "pulley and ascender method."

Review by: Chris McNamara Last Updated: January 1, 2010
Ratings Summary
  • Get the complete hauling device rating results summary. We tested 4 hauling devices which have received a total of 27 reviews (including our own) for an average score of 3.9 out of 5. Learn how we rated all the products, and how customer-reviews stack up...
Buying Advice
How we Test
Comments
Want to comment on this best-in-class review?
Sign-in or Join SuperTopo and start talking!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Nov 26, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
Oh fer cryin' out loud, Chris! You don't even review the best hauling device on the market, the Kong Block-Roll? I would be happy to loan you one so you can try it and see what you are missing, in the [unlikely?] event you actually still climb big walls, rather than simply jump off of them.

And you give five stars to the Pro-Trax, which is a known piece of "shit" that frequently fails under heavy load? I have met two separate parties [besides myself] at the base of El Cap who had to bail when their Pro-Trax failed.

And you actually recommend a hauling device that is rated for a mere ONE kilonewton, the Wall Hauler? This means you can't even safely space haul with it!

What are you - some kinda hauling n00b? Or just some lame-ass speed climber. ;)

Sheesh.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Nov 26, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
Corrections to the above review:
Pulley sheave diameter in Wall Hauler is 1.54".
Sheave diameter in ProTraxion is 1.5".

See the discussion in the supertopo Forum for more pulley options and discussion and links:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1006278/Gear_Recommendation_Needed_BEST_WALL_PULLEY
Robert Schiesser

Mountain climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 27, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
Have used the pro-traxion on several walls and it is definitely smooth as a babies bottom. Not only smooth but just generally easy to use, with quick set up and super easy ratcheting loading and unloading you can be sure to be off on your next death defying short-fix in no time.
That being said, hauling on slabs sucks no matter what you do. The other ratcheting Petzl pully still is a pretty amazing step up from ye ol' pully ascender combo though.
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
  Nov 30, 2009 - 08:05am PT
I would never rank the wall hauler as "best in class". I have owned two. On both of them, the pin that locks the pulley in the closed position broke. If this happens when you have bags loaded, you are in TROUBLE. Also, the pin is not convenient to be putting in and out. There is a big difference when docking a bag (doing a mini haul to be able to open the cam so that you can stop hauling) between reaching up and pressing a button (on the Petzl devices) and having to pull that damn pin.

I do like both Petzl devices and I have used the Kong Block Roll, which works pretty well, but it is huge.

I would rank using a BAP (Big A** Pulley) and a Petzl Basic Ascender (not a full on ascender) many notches above using a Wall Hauler. I have used this hauling system on about 6 Yosemite walls? Not because I have heavy bags, but because it is safe and reasonably efficient and some partners object to the Pro traxion.

I have been trying to sell my current wall hauler for $25 for several seasons now and no one buys it. What does that say?

So, the first person who reads this who is on a budget might want to buy my used Wall Hauler (Even though I don't really recommend it). The next person should go in on a pro traxion with a buddy. I have borrowed them for a 6 pack before, and shared one with a partner for a couple of years before getting one on my own. Not many people climb enough walls a year that they can't share a hauling device.

Also, I would say ease of loading and unloading the device does matter a lot, even if you preload the haul line, which I always do. You still have to unload and reload the device at the end of every haul, and there is nothing like holding your precious mini traxion, in you hand, with it clipped into NOTHING, to scare you about what would happen if you dropped it. Of course there are a lot of things that you could drop on a big wall to hose yourself, but having the Protraxion always clipped to its biner and clipped to something when I am messing with it is a good thing.

It is important to note that various accidents and dropping the bag incidents have occured with the Petzl devices that cause people to be wary of them. In the one fatality I know of, I have read the detailed NPS reports and findings and human error was the primary cause,if not the only cause, of the accident. However, I have had the cams slip on both devices, so they are not FOOL proof. Because of these incidents, I have had partners insist on NOT using a Petzl device. When that happens, I do not reach for a Wall Hauler!!
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
  Nov 30, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
I have heard the negative comments about the Petzl Pro Traxion, but have used it and love it. I would, however, like to get a Kong Block Roll to try. However, to date, I have not been able to obtain one anywhere. If anyone knows where to buy one, please let me know! Also, the CMI RP101 mentioned has a strength labeled by the manufacturer pretty much identical to the Petzl Pro Traxion. And the CMI RP101 efficiency is rated at 93.3%, which is LESS than the Pro Traxion at 95%. A better choice from CMI would be the RP103 with an effeciency of 95.6%.
chris v

climber
  Dec 2, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
I've had great experiences with both the Pro-Traxion and Mini Traxion. I used the pulley/ascender system for a few years until the Wall Hauler came out. I stopped using the Wall Hauler when the Mini Traxion came out. I upgraded to the Pro-Traxion because I love spending extra days on walls.

Wall climbing for me comes in two hauling classes 1 day or 3 plus days. The Mini-Traxion is great for light and fast climbs and fixed line self belay. It's compact, easy to use and bomber. The Pro is great for hauling big loads due to its larger pulley, and also because you can dock the massive load while the rope is still in the hauler. (i.e., it's less clumsy to unclip from the rope and pass to the leader than the Mini Traxion).

In most cases, I would use the Pro Traxion over the old fashioned method, even on really heavy walls. If it's too heavy, I just set up a more advanced pulley system.
Mike.

climber
  Jan 11, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
Seeing the headline "The Best Big Wall Hauling Devices," then seeing the Traxions and a Wall Hauler only included in the review is definitely giving short shrift to good gear out there.

The Traxions and Wall Hauler are fine IMO for light loads (under 60 pounds). Though I have used the Pro-Trax for a plugged grade six (10k ci, 100+ lbs) haul bag more than once with success, I would most likely no longer use the device in that capacity as it is IMO more designed for compact size, light weight and convenience than it is being a burly unit for big jobs. More than one climber has reported poor (even dangerous) results with the Pro Traxion. I have personally seen the play in the side plates create openings large enough that, when not paying absolute attention to the unit's orientation, can swallow a haul line if it skips off the sheave. This happened to me once, and that was enough.

The Kong Block Roll, as mentioned, is the most glaring oversight. This is a dreamy hauler distributed by MountainWorks in Provo UT.

The time tested single pulley with ascenders may be the most reliable and efficient m.o. for most climbs of less than a week. This method opens up more options for larger sheaves, which is the crux of how easily a 1:1 pulley hauls a load.

For huge loads, I like the security of a rescue hauling pulley or a Block Roll. I've heard people comment the BR is huge and heavy, but compared to a steel rescue ratcheting pulley it's really not (it's primarily aluminum).

Availability for this specialty gear may be an issue. Storrick has a pretty comprehensive survey of rescue, climbing and caving pulleys here:

http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Misc/HaulPulley.html
Chris McNamara hauling on El Capitan.
Chris McNamara hauling on El Capitan.
Credit: Wayne Willoughby

Chris McNamara hauling on El Capitan.

Credit: Wayne Willoughby
Helpful Buying Tips
Hauling Device Buying Advice - Click for details
 Hauling Device Buying Advice

by Chris McNamara